tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30070092423889972312024-03-13T05:04:27.737-06:00Travel With SallyA writer, author, photographer, and expert on regional cuisines, Sally travels the globe bringing you tales from the hinterlands. She specializes in Mexico, the Southwest, and New Mexico, areas she knows and loves.Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-12533978476688755322009-10-21T09:13:00.002-06:002009-10-21T09:48:02.999-06:00Santo Domingo Arts & Crafts Festival<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwaU8TmWq1G0aM3irEchXwn6U3eBYD2S9TGf7VfBjfv7RwmRqIzVCaRjiGl0pdpOTxI9MC8MTNrNFUF_0qCqA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-24418620325579327552009-09-02T11:24:00.002-06:002009-09-02T11:29:25.019-06:00My Friend Bop.Every writer needs a pal.<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyO-5jAIAfBV0pRrrpQ6VHVK-Ro2JEEVRVEeR6Gqow1qt8Ap3Wa2ppUtWMBSlWyTeg6z3sni2zgC0EWRppgXg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-17965041443128735902009-08-31T08:15:00.007-06:002009-08-31T08:37:54.617-06:00Santa Fe's Indian Market August 2009<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxQ456lNgCf8Ye_KGmG8dCq0Gtnl9w6g7nvw8csLw4tLO2PJM305gdO5IoUayCaFf6B76aMyXHIG0fC1kKJBQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-42058222816880889592009-08-28T14:54:00.002-06:002009-08-28T15:04:17.475-06:00Santa Fe's Spanish Market<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyRJ331PX0Ei9v71oHPp6TVQ4luOrZ4DVYcWMQJo3lqpeMgAQ5WzcET384lGR85eP3BII_Z_REb03treyLFHw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-15304365160952087422009-07-10T10:27:00.020-06:002009-08-24T06:50:38.686-06:00Morelia, Heart of Mexico<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOAhPN8IqHeb2hvAL6kkkP5AET_LvHOs2ngw-l0avt7JvtFV3hekLsATsNZ5gpTQHdA0aquLHIOtgOQU8A165EZmQE2SCahvh8bX__PkBK2DKQbwhjTgyR5OMagwuEBf7s0AgGAiGH-s/s1600-h/Michoacan.Morelia.Candy2..jpg"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbe0OWBVWNZ3_bqY4sy29vjpvc4nF0q0N5zP4X40SAkDlmJuytNl6vMhylk_zMLlnFu-uvkidY6OfHd7-0O1PZmtNT6zqueDdtHWhJNCWyS80_uj4bYqk9nsvAnNZJvYnWqMoECyQ5XQ/s1600-h/Michoacan.Morelia.PlazaMartires3.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbe0OWBVWNZ3_bqY4sy29vjpvc4nF0q0N5zP4X40SAkDlmJuytNl6vMhylk_zMLlnFu-uvkidY6OfHd7-0O1PZmtNT6zqueDdtHWhJNCWyS80_uj4bYqk9nsvAnNZJvYnWqMoECyQ5XQ/s400/Michoacan.Morelia.PlazaMartires3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356936315280751954" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">With the exception is San Miguel Allende, Mexico's Colonial Cities have often been overlooked by the press and travelers. Morelia, the capital of the state of Michoacan and the largest city in the state, deserves exploration for those looking for an elegant, gracious hospitality. </span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, Morelia's over 1,000 historic pink stone buildings buildings reflect a eclectic blend of Renaissance, Baroque, and neoclassical architecture. The Centro Historico encompasses about 140 blocks and corresponds roughly to the city's urban area at the end of the 18th century.</span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Founded as the "City of Michoacan" on May 18, 1541 by the first viceroy of New Spain, Antonio de Mendoza, it was settled by fifty noble Spanish families and by their servants, the Purepecha Indians from Patzcuaro. In 1545 the name was changed first to Valladolid and then to Morelia in 1828 to honor Jose Maria Morelos, one of the leaders in the of the War of Independence from Spain. </span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;font-family:'times new roman';"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: normal; font-family:Georgia;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi50j9rFemR5GNQiaxALKV7g4HtD48RZXr3ErF9j5ZcQSiwU5kQ1LkALmUvMlkho2w3YrF929xtvPwHZ81SY5ISLr3cGh0EDUTg2FasT-fX3msSuXaCj_vzwbTsp1zIvu0lzm5-SZsQ2oI/s1600-h/Michoacan.Morelia.Cathedral2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi50j9rFemR5GNQiaxALKV7g4HtD48RZXr3ErF9j5ZcQSiwU5kQ1LkALmUvMlkho2w3YrF929xtvPwHZ81SY5ISLr3cGh0EDUTg2FasT-fX3msSuXaCj_vzwbTsp1zIvu0lzm5-SZsQ2oI/s400/Michoacan.Morelia.Cathedral2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356935692765619954" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Exploring is easy since almost everything is within walking distance of main square. Your first stop should be the Cathedral, begun in 1660 but not completed until 1744. The church's twin towers in the Baroque style are a landmark, and its best known treasure is a 16th century corn paste statue of the Senor de la Sacristia with its gold crown donated by Philip II of Spain. The 4,600 pipe German organ is the star of the annual International Organ Festival. </span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">While in the area, stroll over to the Palacio de Gobierno, once a Tridentine Seminary, and now a seat of State government. Walk up the staircase and view the mural by Alfredo Zalce which depicts local themes.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Exiting the cathedral, walk down Francisco I Madero and turn right on Nigromante. The Palacio Clavijero is on your left. The seat of the city government offices, the austere baroque building was a former Jesuit college. </span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Beyond the Palacio, the Templo and Conservatoria de las Rosas houses the first music conservatory in North America. Originally the convent of La Merced, it was named for the practice of young female students throwing roses from the cloisters to their suitors on the street. While I was there, a rehearsal was underway for the annual International Morelia Music Festival. The Baroque instruments of harpsichord, flute and violin made beautiful harmonies in the old church. </span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-3bO63YqnncbbeEMdnDJGfel-mmP5BW6Eiw3lrTNd8Ur7bMvqkZXDt6sjkDTZKg_1FKzS2KyV0qhY_L8tXdgkR3CI9NLGh9fEhsJwoVUheximJzBLumW_EFpIaW-pMYQnCrM4kCoSTV0/s1600-h/Michoacan.Morelia.Biblioteca..jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-3bO63YqnncbbeEMdnDJGfel-mmP5BW6Eiw3lrTNd8Ur7bMvqkZXDt6sjkDTZKg_1FKzS2KyV0qhY_L8tXdgkR3CI9NLGh9fEhsJwoVUheximJzBLumW_EFpIaW-pMYQnCrM4kCoSTV0/s400/Michoacan.Morelia.Biblioteca..jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356932688766323426" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">So many of Morelia's buildings are worth a stop. It's only limited by your time and endurance: the Aqueduct and Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel; the nearby Santuario de Nuesrtra de Guadalupe, an 18th century church with intriguing interior paintings and carvings; the Museo Regional Michoacan on Allende which display artifacts relating to the state's ecology and history; the Templo de la Compania de Jesus, a 17th century church; and the Casa Natal de Morelos, where Independence hero Jose Maria Morelos was born in 1765.</span></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOAhPN8IqHeb2hvAL6kkkP5AET_LvHOs2ngw-l0avt7JvtFV3hekLsATsNZ5gpTQHdA0aquLHIOtgOQU8A165EZmQE2SCahvh8bX__PkBK2DKQbwhjTgyR5OMagwuEBf7s0AgGAiGH-s/s1600-h/Michoacan.Morelia.Candy2..jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOAhPN8IqHeb2hvAL6kkkP5AET_LvHOs2ngw-l0avt7JvtFV3hekLsATsNZ5gpTQHdA0aquLHIOtgOQU8A165EZmQE2SCahvh8bX__PkBK2DKQbwhjTgyR5OMagwuEBf7s0AgGAiGH-s/s400/Michoacan.Morelia.Candy2..jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356937731140439890" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Two blocks west of the Portales, along Madero, is the famous block-long arcaded Mercado de Dulces (</span></span><em style="font-style: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Candy Market</span></span></em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">). </span></span><em style="font-style: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Morelia</span></span></em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> is famous for its sweets, and the market stocks a rainbow of choices from my favorite, ate, a chewy tamarind paste to peanut marzipan. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Before returning to your hotel, stop at the Casa de Artesanias on Fray Juan de San Miguel, Once the 16th century Convento de San Buenaventura, it has been restored to a showcase for Michoacan's rich craft tradition. You'll find the best of the best here, and I dare you to come away without just one item.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">If you want to be in the thick of things, I'd recommend booking one of the hotels right on the plaza like the Hotel Alameda, but there are a wide variety of other accommodations including spas and bed and breakfasts. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Restaurants run from cafes to fine dining. A great place for authentic Michoacan food is Lu's Restaurant at the Hotel Casino. For an unusual experience, go to San Miguelito Restaurant with its eccentric decor. Every square inch of wall space is covered with figures of San Antonio upside down. Apparently, there is a legend that if you bring an image of the saint and position it in the inverse, your wish will be granted. For proof, ask to see their collection of testimonials.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Contact:</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">General information: </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">www.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">http://www.michoacan-travel.com/eng_mor_aprincipal.htm</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;"></span></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">www.mexconnect.com/.../201-introduction-to-</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">michoacán</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">-the-soul-of-mexico</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Boutique Hotels:</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">www.tesorosmichoacan.com </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Restaurants:</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">See general info</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">www.sanmiguelito.com.mx/Htm/ (Spanish)<br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px; font-family:'times new roman';"> </span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 19px; font-family:-webkit-sans-serif;font-size:13px;"><p style="margin-top: 0.4em; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: 0px; line-height: 1.5em; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><br /></p></span></div></div></div></div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-84150318457352938142009-03-24T17:08:00.028-06:002009-03-26T10:25:47.438-06:00Patzcuaro: Where Gods Descend<div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz71L2brRLUy1eD25p8L910N6XUgc7uW6aIBreb5XeFcAnSf5lMxZ0mtnd7xZcqU4hrWkTdrW4SvqLDzhNAnshSS3f7ry4_jvBVC3rR74INR1Wavc6eoLp16ccMd_TN98GKbGyn8pFtR4/s1600-h/Mihoacan.Quiroga.women.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz71L2brRLUy1eD25p8L910N6XUgc7uW6aIBreb5XeFcAnSf5lMxZ0mtnd7xZcqU4hrWkTdrW4SvqLDzhNAnshSS3f7ry4_jvBVC3rR74INR1Wavc6eoLp16ccMd_TN98GKbGyn8pFtR4/s400/Mihoacan.Quiroga.women.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317522904640592130" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div>An old guidebook lists Patzcuaro as a town frequently visited by tourists. Today's publications might not be as generous, and that is a shame since the small colonial city in Michoacan is a jewel and has been named one of Mexico's Magic Towns. A recent business trip took me to Morelia, the capital of the state, and with some time to explore, I drove the 33 miles into the hills. </div><div><br /></div><div>Writer Edna Fergusson aptly describes the place in her book <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Fiesta in Mexico</span>: "a colonial town which retreats into soft hills away from the Indian lake." Before the Spanish conquest Patzcuaro was one of three principal centers for the Purepecha Indians. Settled about 1324 by Rey Cuarteme, the indigenous population called it "the city of stones" and believed it to have been the doorway to heaven where the gods ascended and descended. </div><div><br /></div><div>True to form, the early Spanish occupation was brutal. Nuno Guzman de Baltran visited many atrocities on the Purepecha including burning alive the local chief when he wouldn't disclose where the Indian gold was hidden. Guzman's crimes were so egregious that the Spanish authorities were forced to arrest him. In his place they sent Vasco de Quiroga, who became somewhat of a local saint, establishing schools, hospitals, and introducing the craft cooperatives in nearby villages. Although those cooperatives did not survive as such, many villages surrounding Patzuaro still specialize, making the area one of the most culturally rich in Mexico.</div><div><br /></div><div>The town itself is in the high sierra at an altitude of 7,130 feet. Most of the buildings are single story adobe or plaster over brick with red tile roofs. The central plaza, Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, is locally known simply as Plaza Grande. A statue of the region's benefactor stands in the center, and small shops ring the square. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgr0HvVGCWa4uJ0bHpA2layykytAn_bNt5DyK2_Aaf43PswvJxOKxlM4wHXlZrNVjLtQvrNGXCJsEecVhq8ntRP8ZgwslD7ouzNDM3dkrrmxkiggjZzy-FB9nbahHIjksFTuBgO7TiRd4/s400/Michoacan.Patzcuaro.PlazaQuiroga2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317521966349723570" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238);"><br /></span></div><div>A short distance from the plaza the Casa de los Once Patios (House of Eleven Patios) is being transformed from its previous existence as a Dominican nunnery into studios for artisans. Many local stores specialize in embroidery and lacquerwork. </div><div><br /></div><div>Patzcuaro is known for its Dance of the Viejitos (Old Men). Brandishing canes, spryly cavorting, and flirting with the young girls, the dancers wear colorful masks designed to mimic wrinkled ancients. The troop performs at the Posada de Don Vasco on Wednesday and Saturday nights and on many weekends at the Plaza Grande. If you are lucky and a good bargain hunter, you might be able to buy one of the hand-carved masks at one of the local emporiums.</div><div><br /></div><div>East of downtown the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Salud (Basilica of Our Lady of Health) was built by Bishop Quiroga between 1546 and 1554 as a cathedral, but only one nave was completed. It contains a statue of Our Lady made of wild orchids and thick corn paste, a technique typical of Indian sacral art. Quiroga also build the Cathedral of Michoacan in 1546. Today it is the Jesuit church. South of the basilica the Colegio de San Nicolas, founded in 1540 by Quiroga, now houses the Museum of Popular Arts and Archaeology with exhibits of carvings, pottery, weaving and artifacts. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVPWvytFkvIi9XK3yNGJu60z4xsLKifqwVBc7Kq3O1zsw4wtL2FhiQBPrk5iapdt-Cs3IirfzevnBqdK0HJe55S4xk_069HnLepOErCGX1f9ZmjSs65A2xamHO8JNJFabPNGy4UND4MGs/s1600-h/Mexico.LakePatzcuaro.Janitzin9.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVPWvytFkvIi9XK3yNGJu60z4xsLKifqwVBc7Kq3O1zsw4wtL2FhiQBPrk5iapdt-Cs3IirfzevnBqdK0HJe55S4xk_069HnLepOErCGX1f9ZmjSs65A2xamHO8JNJFabPNGy4UND4MGs/s400/Mexico.LakePatzcuaro.Janitzin9.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317529114455820498" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>No description of Patzucuaro would be complete without a mention of beautiful Lake Patzcuaro and its islands: Janitzio, Jaracuaro, Uranden, Pacanda, Yunuen, and Tecuena. The large shallow lake is home to the Indian fishermen with their much-photographed butterfly nets. To reach any of the islands, go to the muelles (docks) to catch a boat. The wood launches depart on a semi-regular schedule, and you can purchase tickets at a dockside office.</div><div><br /></div><div>Janitizio island is almost 100 percent Purepecha and is the site of one of Mexico's most famous Day of the Dead festivals. If you decide to visit the island, be prepared for a long, steep hike to the summit where the huge, primitive statue of revolutionary leader Jose Maria Morelos crowns the rocky hill. On our visit, we did not land on Janitizio due to time constraints, but did take the ride to photograph the fishermen, who were netting tips, not fish.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzRbBGKDYzYJKk52FbowK_DsihQNKQnIYoFS6t4BJJISYEeIQ4btSokhxJJZtqtrlY997pnE1HgptmSNxNlKE_Es67x8pq1mAaX6a23zlx1H-aUKCWRzUj9ySyiXIINJTqw8dvtMHcPfE/s1600-h/MexicoLakePatzcuaroFishermen10.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzRbBGKDYzYJKk52FbowK_DsihQNKQnIYoFS6t4BJJISYEeIQ4btSokhxJJZtqtrlY997pnE1HgptmSNxNlKE_Es67x8pq1mAaX6a23zlx1H-aUKCWRzUj9ySyiXIINJTqw8dvtMHcPfE/s400/MexicoLakePatzcuaroFishermen10.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317525079133799122" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 293px; " /> </a></div><div><br /></div><div>In addition to the attractions in the town and on the lake, Patzcuaro is surrounded by small villages specializing in crafts. My favorite is Santa Clara del Cobre, 13 miles from city center. Although the local copper mines are no longer active, artisans still make everything from napkin rings to cooking vessels using recycled copper. At the Museo del Cobre you can watch while the ore is heated, pounded into ingots, and finally hammered into desired shapes with one of three finishes: high shine, fire bloom, or unpolished. The owners speak English and can take you through the whole process or advise you on purchases from their large selection. I came away with a pot for fudge or whipping egg whites and a large repousse platter. If you don't find what you want at the Museo, there are 50 other shops from which to choose.</div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRuk3ek7xGY1GwcLy23xL6uSzNe1cOuurxMadCFN4lqYqcd8056-f8LCxZTi7mG-cOXM1Bpx7OY15d7OWiMEEizzEAmuTUnIgCrPOCCpdLUFwk5GE2sXRSQECabNpbKKwU6Y_efSwLMtA/s1600-h/Michoacan.SantaClaraCobre.CasaFelicitasDemo5.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRuk3ek7xGY1GwcLy23xL6uSzNe1cOuurxMadCFN4lqYqcd8056-f8LCxZTi7mG-cOXM1Bpx7OY15d7OWiMEEizzEAmuTUnIgCrPOCCpdLUFwk5GE2sXRSQECabNpbKKwU6Y_efSwLMtA/s400/Michoacan.SantaClaraCobre.CasaFelicitasDemo5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317525729746807474" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Tzintzuntzan is worth the 11 mile drive to visit the remains of the 16th century Franciscan monastery with its ancient olive trees and for its main street market selling Indian made ceramics and basketry crafts. Don't miss the Las Yacatas archaeological site on a rise overlooking the town and the lake. The peaceful site was the last stronghold of the prehistoric Purepecha people, and for a small fee you can stroll the grassy knoll with its reconstructed stone step pyramids and outline of the emperor's house.</div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTxbXs8L9o50piDhFl-utbPOvzWT35HsbYh229II7qK8OyoRBbl5C-iv1pFD3D22lXsnyDb78PiBoLOXUt05eB1RkZzhTfLQKcFu3w0hUJw8jLhfyxeuxgWCumKQf0KTrbmml8FY6QYzI/s1600-h/Michoacan.Tzintzuntzan.LasYacatas2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTxbXs8L9o50piDhFl-utbPOvzWT35HsbYh229II7qK8OyoRBbl5C-iv1pFD3D22lXsnyDb78PiBoLOXUt05eB1RkZzhTfLQKcFu3w0hUJw8jLhfyxeuxgWCumKQf0KTrbmml8FY6QYzI/s400/Michoacan.Tzintzuntzan.LasYacatas2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317527423910091090" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Patzcuaro and vicinity has some culinary specialties: sopa tarasca, a local variation of tortilla soup; coronas, pyramid shaped tamales; fish, especially charales, the tiny lake fish eaten whole; and in nearby Quiroga, carnitas, a lard confit of all parts of the pig stewed in a copper pot and served on a bun. Not for the faint of heart.</div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdl-qMtUIhiAXK2lZho8OVHdJxUqwGjZt9sCJzyTn9q8OWEAgdv1HK198_U5oq1L7J-SGrhoq1kI7T0C1xuPBT-rP6c8CoALYzEhR_EpSpJ3yXCYAI50w2CiWw-tleSm6rrsPSincasc/s1600-h/Michoacan.Quiroga.carnitas2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdl-qMtUIhiAXK2lZho8OVHdJxUqwGjZt9sCJzyTn9q8OWEAgdv1HK198_U5oq1L7J-SGrhoq1kI7T0C1xuPBT-rP6c8CoALYzEhR_EpSpJ3yXCYAI50w2CiWw-tleSm6rrsPSincasc/s400/Michoacan.Quiroga.carnitas2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5317528033925664626" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Where I stayed and dined:</div><div><br /></div><div>Hotel Posada de Dan Vasco (El Tarasco Restaurant), Av. Lazaro Lardenas, 450, Col. Centro, Patzcuaro, Michoacan. (01-52) 434-342-02-27. Lovely but not easy walking distance to town, approximately 2 miles.</div><div><br /></div><div>Mansion de Suenos (Priscills'a Restaurant), Ibarra No. 15 Centro, Patzcuaro, Michoacan 61600. 01-434-342-57-08. www.prismas.com.mx <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>El Rey de las Carnitas, Portal Hidalgo No. 6, Quiroga, Michoacan. (01 454) 354 03 50. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com43tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-55272928638157063962009-03-16T09:49:00.016-06:002009-03-16T14:10:20.286-06:00New Mexico Historic Hotels: Two Different Fates<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2ECRahgCOAMWPfYIYkOVOXsbmcrBe2ZSDGD79Lpm5PLhTPtcKa0Xk_ux6UOrnxHmeeA-92pU8guq13ELw4v0fSNj2mfRcoiBQ7HnNdjUfZTrcZNm7ROSdv3QPR2MRYLjySKiaSrje8U/s1600-h/AlvaradoFront.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2ECRahgCOAMWPfYIYkOVOXsbmcrBe2ZSDGD79Lpm5PLhTPtcKa0Xk_ux6UOrnxHmeeA-92pU8guq13ELw4v0fSNj2mfRcoiBQ7HnNdjUfZTrcZNm7ROSdv3QPR2MRYLjySKiaSrje8U/s400/AlvaradoFront.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313850782883095714" /></a><br /><div>The demolition of grand old hotels is a ongoing tragedy. A new exhibit at the Albuquerque Museum illustrates the glory which once was the Duke City's Alvarado, and a recent stay at Silver City's Palace Hotel illustrates the obstacles some of these antiquated properties face accommodating the modern traveler.</div><div><br /></div><div>The magnificent Alvarado was the inspiration of the Fred Harvey Indian Department working in conjunction with the AT&SF railroad.. Built in 1902, the complex extended two city blocks. Constructed in the Mission style of wood frame with a red clay tile roofing, the complex included a railroad depot and offices, hotel, restaurant, and a museum and gift shop united by a 200-foot arcade and 4-foot exterior walls. The walls were surfaced with steel lathe and rough gray Portland cement stucco. The upper levels had projecting parapets and towers influenced by California missions and included features like pierced facades used for hanging bells and four-sided bell towers with open arches. </div><div><br /></div><div> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjG2JWeuD6ybKJdUXChf8dhZdy2qse7UsfzbB9Ik5wtfYmzv_othtoND280mJhv10_2kwX4xhqkWWaR7IuddQW9xbf1bDN2tadh1TJJsSJGuatsdkXRpAI1Ua2PRp7XHf1um7lrxuaEA/s1600-h/Bell.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTjG2JWeuD6ybKJdUXChf8dhZdy2qse7UsfzbB9Ik5wtfYmzv_othtoND280mJhv10_2kwX4xhqkWWaR7IuddQW9xbf1bDN2tadh1TJJsSJGuatsdkXRpAI1Ua2PRp7XHf1um7lrxuaEA/s400/Bell.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313853585914528146" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Perhaps the Alvarado's best loved featured was the Indian and Mexican Building Museum, which was positioned along the arcade south of the lunchroom and within reach of passengers traveling on the railroad. The Indian Room held native work from the regions linked by the railroad, and the Spanish Room featured a collection of Spanish, Mexican, and New Mexican art. The salesroom had shelves of southwestern pottery and the Navajo jewelry the Harvey Company specially commissioned for its appeal to travelers. As a child I had two Harvey bracelets, and one daughter collects them.</div><div><br /></div><div>Unfortunately, time and the economy was not kind to the Alvarado, and in spite of heroic efforts by Albuquerque. Historical Society, it fell victim to the wrecking ball in February 1970. An auction was held, and everything was sold off to eager buyers. Fortunately, those buyers valued the material, which often was donated to the museum. These artifacts are the basis of the current exhibit, which runs through June 7, 2009. It is comprehensive. You'll find everything from the trademark Syracuse Denmark china and Gorham Churchill silver to door hardware from the Cocina Cantina, the one-time lounge. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOm9oQC3lngy1FhU7IJlKhvhffMXxlUey-sHVhHchXI7LLgoZV_7avNV4tzlbtqVtTyCHzyglZoEZhde9oSqh_4QpkSUKi09tIv8MFIc1GxOytZHTR_ZIy1n-U0xuI9EMS40YBJKgeRLY/s1600-h/AlvaradoKey.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOm9oQC3lngy1FhU7IJlKhvhffMXxlUey-sHVhHchXI7LLgoZV_7avNV4tzlbtqVtTyCHzyglZoEZhde9oSqh_4QpkSUKi09tIv8MFIc1GxOytZHTR_ZIy1n-U0xuI9EMS40YBJKgeRLY/s400/AlvaradoKey.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313850793959850306" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>On a recent fact-gathering trip through southern New Mexico, I had the opportunity to stay at one of the state's still-operating historic hotels , The Palace in Silver City. The imposing building with its cast iron front was built for the Meredith and Ailman bank in 1882. Converted to a hotel in 1900, the new owner Max Shutz "spared no pains or expense to make the new hotel an up-to-date house in every respect...(with) every modern hotel convenience such as closets, bath rooms (sic), electric lights."<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The Place has experienced many ups and downs since then. Purchased by Cal and Nancy Thompson in 1990, the hotel has been restored and refurbished with the help of the Main Street Project and the New Mexico Historical Preservation Office. For aficionados of old properties with a Victorian flair, The Palace has some predictable eccentricities. There are no elevators, and the climb to the second level is long. At the head of the stairs, a sitting room doubles as the breakfast nook. Rooms split off the long, narrow halls and vary greatly in decor. </div><div><br /></div><div>Since I booked late, no single rooms were available, so I reserved a suite. My "suite" consisted of two rooms divided by a bath consisting of tub/shower and toilet. The quarters were so crowded that my knees touched the tub while perched on the throne. The larger of the two rooms was dark with a blocked window and contained a king bed, a dressing table, end table and sink. The smaller room which overlooked the street had a rump-sprung coach, a television, microwave, sink, and a small refrigerator. This was definitely not the Ritz.</div><div><br /></div><div>After a continental breakfast in the morning , I stuck my head in several rooms which were waiting for the maid and discovered several brighter, more pleasant accommodations. Next time I'm in Silver, I'll call ahead and try for one of the quarters with a queen bed. Room 70 was especially inviting. </div><div><br /></div><div>Two hotels, one still hanging on with the patronage of travelers willing to put up with some inconvenience, one destroyed for a parking lot. I'll take the inconvenience any day.</div><div><br /></div><div>The Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, 19th & Mountain Road, NW, Albuquerque 87104, (505) 243-7255. Closed Monday. Fee. www.cabq.gov.museum </div><div><br /></div><div>For information on existing Harvey Houses, go to Fred Harvey Harvey Houses www.harveyhouses.net/index.html </div><div><br /></div><div>The Palace Hotel, 106 Broadway, Silver City 88061. (575) 388-1811. www.zinanet.com/palacehotel </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-63710613011920359032009-03-09T09:25:00.041-06:002009-03-10T09:17:35.109-06:00Mazatlan, Part Five: Get Out of Town<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCdwDhWbyYOge_Rlttt9A5FfxrwHn-GA3rRAC-3vxKEo9iRbBnc08COof9QNVoIW3EYpuY375o8FlnxMZc4EWnDbfQP0UzMScJiaM9tScotgPzfE82nfKMxS-LPrlwRlpTjulkREz6iXc/s1600-h/StUsalaChurch.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 312px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCdwDhWbyYOge_Rlttt9A5FfxrwHn-GA3rRAC-3vxKEo9iRbBnc08COof9QNVoIW3EYpuY375o8FlnxMZc4EWnDbfQP0UzMScJiaM9tScotgPzfE82nfKMxS-LPrlwRlpTjulkREz6iXc/s400/StUsalaChurch.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311283201267067298" /></a><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;"><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">In addition to a vibrant cultural center, accommodations for all tastes and pocketbooks, and a wide array of restaurants, Mazatlan is home base for tours into the nearby town of La Noria as well as gateway to the Sierras.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">La Noria (the Well in Spanish) is a scant 20 miles northeast of Mazatlan. An agricultural community with a tradition of leatherwork and saddle-making, it's a regular destination of city tour groups. Although the town is attractive and colorful, most groups head out to the tequila factory after a brief stroll around the plaza, a visit to St. Anthony's church, and perhaps the purchase of a stamped leather belt or a pair of huaraches. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;font-size:16px;"> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-O5VC3E-1qTWf3soP3jzvfrkbqkRy2OVd9upumFk71wuEVDxmllMQStgZ3_Mxn5KeCxqTvRMj8gGSg5-DNfKpZf8JHXe2IyjjLXSRkQIQYUIytNfG8jE-sfTsu3M_6lwmCTAfgoQ0i3A/s1600-h/LeatherShop3.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-O5VC3E-1qTWf3soP3jzvfrkbqkRy2OVd9upumFk71wuEVDxmllMQStgZ3_Mxn5KeCxqTvRMj8gGSg5-DNfKpZf8JHXe2IyjjLXSRkQIQYUIytNfG8jE-sfTsu3M_6lwmCTAfgoQ0i3A/s400/LeatherShop3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311253499728575042" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;font-size:16px;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Compared to the Jalisco distilleries, La Vinata de los Osuna is a compact operation capable of producing 540 gallons day. In truth, their product cannot be officially called tequila because it is not produced in Mexico's specifically designated area, the D.O., in the northwest. Their "tequila" however, is 100 percent blue agave and is made in the traditional way, which is demonstrated on the tour. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:16px;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;font-size:16px;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMnwbPDgn7HoHhHL-bVPYSD0r5lJm-do5CUOeU-WRurtzpdUQg4NzohX6pS7GgWi4DObyhuY2r8FZR-izn9hPI80CDeWKqRIYhWqjhgXFICVFUie6jz2OGCubRiWOpNiLuylbeeN9mQ0A/s1600-h/AgaveMuleGrinder2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMnwbPDgn7HoHhHL-bVPYSD0r5lJm-do5CUOeU-WRurtzpdUQg4NzohX6pS7GgWi4DObyhuY2r8FZR-izn9hPI80CDeWKqRIYhWqjhgXFICVFUie6jz2OGCubRiWOpNiLuylbeeN9mQ0A/s400/AgaveMuleGrinder2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311253713947888562" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a></span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">First, the agave is cultivated in the fields for 8 to 10 years</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> before it is ready for harvest. The plant is cut, trimmed, and taken to the distillery where the pinas are quartered and roasted in primitive pit ovens (for demonstration purposes) or autoclaves. When the pinas' starches are converted to sugars, at Osuna they are crushed with a stone wheel drawn around a circular trough by a mule, then shredded to extract their juice, called aguamiel. Fermented in pot stills, the resulting liquid is distilled at least twice. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Tequilas are rated by the amount of aging: silver is either not aged or aged for a minimum of 60 days in stainless steel tanks; reposado is aged in wooden tanks for at least two months; and anejo is aged in wooden barrels for a minimum of 12 months. Los Osuna falls somewhere in the reposado range. It doesn't compare to the quality of my personal favorite, Don Julio, but it's a good low-proof tequila.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">After a tour of the facilities, the palapa bar opens so guests may sample the wares. During our trip Tequila Sunrises and Margaritas, were served, but if you wish to get the true flavor of their product, ask for a caballo or pony. I don't go for the salt and lime action but prefer to sip slowly to determine the full flavor and quality.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;font-size:16px;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieTmsXwmyVe6BGEn-ecwsfwX4Dv5oPq3lnMozk4TXIaaSRcfRYXJaAugN6NCGCcZHykYjWPwJjrXkFU1PNXIofTDRsIYcR1wpEZ-bOU8vl6WEGIPc_Nl3Mm5GMUn_wS5QcsOAgjZh3iCc/s1600-h/CityHall2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieTmsXwmyVe6BGEn-ecwsfwX4Dv5oPq3lnMozk4TXIaaSRcfRYXJaAugN6NCGCcZHykYjWPwJjrXkFU1PNXIofTDRsIYcR1wpEZ-bOU8vl6WEGIPc_Nl3Mm5GMUn_wS5QcsOAgjZh3iCc/s400/CityHall2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311287754819552802" style="cursor: pointer; width: 279px; height: 400px; " /></a></span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">If you want to extend your Sinaloa experience, you can travel 75 miles to Cosala. Named a Heritage Site and Pueblo Magico by Mexican tourism officials, Cosala is</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> It is located northwest of Mazatlan between Sinaloa and the state of Durango. Cosala means in the Cahita language "place of the beautiful landscape." </span></span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">The village lives up to its name and cries out to be explored on foot, street by street. Founded as The Royal Mines of the Eleven Hundred Virgins of Cosala in the 16th century, Cosala's architecture is distinguished by thatched roofs and tile-crowned cornices. The patios and adobe walls are framed by painted moldings which contrast colorfully with building exteriors. A palm shaded plaza with fountain is surrounded by shops, restaurants, the city hall, and the Jesuit and Franciscan convents. Stop at the Santa Ursula Temple, built in the 18th century; peruse the documents, old photographs, mineral samples and pre-Hispanic and colonial metal objects at the Museum of Mining and History; or sample the local cuisine at El Merendero, El Pueblito, or El Sazon de Dona Tichi restaurants around the plaza.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi402MXz1rTwwpyZ5GSuCZuSiY5bRj8NSoFsCuf8W8iQ3p8PgS6Oi6Q7k9XC6RsezJZM8LBiS0IfK0a2NGfefIgGiZULxA8wHyR5-JG9ANJ4DkiP7SwVvZgC9Cr_mUyYvBW_eMwrIyGR4I/s1600-h/PollosWill.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi402MXz1rTwwpyZ5GSuCZuSiY5bRj8NSoFsCuf8W8iQ3p8PgS6Oi6Q7k9XC6RsezJZM8LBiS0IfK0a2NGfefIgGiZULxA8wHyR5-JG9ANJ4DkiP7SwVvZgC9Cr_mUyYvBW_eMwrIyGR4I/s400/PollosWill.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311255624854425202" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></span> </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;">Thursday evening there is a folklorico presentation at the museum. The Hacienda Quinta Minera Hotel is clean, attractive and convenient to the downtown area. Its gardens, pools and patios encourage relaxation.</span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;font-size:16px;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;font-size:16px;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJy_c4GQPC__Qj5mMlaI80ONq2IdJ3gVyN_vFGgPhJ7aa5vLUInRX8QmZDcZJuhiqy5EuJ45Y9aPxIyzrzJMPoTUNSWXA9bxJ5QNTrEE4NF0yfUpIfHcdb5tc58z3OXaZE52usx4Teh0Y/s1600-h/Waterfall.photographer2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJy_c4GQPC__Qj5mMlaI80ONq2IdJ3gVyN_vFGgPhJ7aa5vLUInRX8QmZDcZJuhiqy5EuJ45Y9aPxIyzrzJMPoTUNSWXA9bxJ5QNTrEE4NF0yfUpIfHcdb5tc58z3OXaZE52usx4Teh0Y/s400/Waterfall.photographer2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311252764874357826" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Just five miles from the town, Vado Hondo Waterfall Adventure Park provide pools for swimming in warm weather and a challenging zip line, ropes, and bridge course. Two of our group tried it out and frankly admitted they were terrified. Local women prepared us a delicious picnic lunch of blue corn tortillas, grilled flank steak and grilled spring onions.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Another afternoon we visited the Ecological Reserve of Our Lady Mineral, where they are attempting to bring back the endangered Mexican Green Macaw. There's not a whole lot to see except for a large cage of birds they are trying to rehabilitate.</span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;font-size:16px;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcq6lxETArAZcZfZUAzKWW3NWP9m_U4_vQqZvHClU617_Eag0mQRuhDJ5QjWXB9foID-8B2l7pxFBtz4qsPvK8QsV2IGeM4LfAd3z1oh0lyGcx1OHtkBYdPIMJtVticSZdfRzmIGVc4UI/s1600-h/HaciendaComendore3.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcq6lxETArAZcZfZUAzKWW3NWP9m_U4_vQqZvHClU617_Eag0mQRuhDJ5QjWXB9foID-8B2l7pxFBtz4qsPvK8QsV2IGeM4LfAd3z1oh0lyGcx1OHtkBYdPIMJtVticSZdfRzmIGVc4UI/s400/HaciendaComendore3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311285165192187138" style="cursor: pointer; width: 312px; height: 400px; " /> </a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Leaving the reserve, we drove to Lake Comedero, where we were met by Steve McMahon, who, with his three partners, built a fantastic fishing lodge a few clicks from the local docks. This place is a bass fisherman's paradise with its secluded coves and 100 miles of shoreline. The Lodge is fronted by a palapa bar with views of the lake and mountains. There are 12 rooms including several suites and several with shared baths. They have fully equipped bass boats and provide guides to make the most of time on the water. Unfortunately, we didn't have the opportunity to test Steve's boast of lunkers awaiting our lures. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Helvetica;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">www.bassadventures.com</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">www.haciendaquintaminera.com.mx/contactoe.htm<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:16px;"><br /></span></div></span>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-68228029873359832712009-03-06T08:13:00.027-07:002009-03-08T10:03:26.781-06:00Mazatlan, Part Four: Go Fish<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizkFo7D8DKW_OFbdpmwUfISu3uJM-MP_WmojhlnTflaT1UkegY-uy9ixTWayxEPmnWd4BqOXqJQ9XQ4tVo1aBDWgLASseAADxqcFQe8oPEC_e7YWA7RrZJMtHv5xJy4ugNZdO6aSZAFRk/s1600-h/Fishermanboat.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizkFo7D8DKW_OFbdpmwUfISu3uJM-MP_WmojhlnTflaT1UkegY-uy9ixTWayxEPmnWd4BqOXqJQ9XQ4tVo1aBDWgLASseAADxqcFQe8oPEC_e7YWA7RrZJMtHv5xJy4ugNZdO6aSZAFRk/s400/Fishermanboat.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310123102408441730" /></a><div><br /></div><div>One morning I hopped out of bed, threw on my clothes, and hit the Malecon in the hope of finding the location of Fisherman's Beach. Every day in Mazatlan you can look out on the ocean and see local fisherman in 20-foot pangas with outboard motors. I wanted to find where they brought in their catch, and in spite of numerous questions, I never could get a straight answer. So I walked and walked, determined not to stop until I located the site.<div><br /></div><div>Mazatlan has the largest shrimp fishing fleet in the Pacific, and yearly the huge boats bring in 40,000 tons of the succulent crustaceans to the commercial docks. Although it's interesting to watch the unloading and grading process, I was seeking something different--the men who day after day go down to the sea in small boats.</div><div><br /></div><div>As the light brightened, I strolled past the exquisite monuments which mark the Malecon: the Stag; the Carpe Olivera (my favorite), a mermaid in pike position; La Mazatleca, a tribute to the town's beautiful women; La Clavista, dedicated to the daring high divers; and the statues of a man and woman accompanied by dolphins, a celebration to the Continuity of Life. Rounding Punta Chile with its Maritime College and Punta Tiburon with the March 31st Fort, I looked out to sea and saw I was in time to see the men bring in their morning catch.</div><div><br /></div><div>The process is as old as fishing the waters and decidedly practical, a lesson in making do with what's available. As the small open boats approach the beach, the crews hop out and run to the seawall where a pile of logs are stacked. Taking the logs to the surf, they place one under the bow and roll the boat unto that support. Everyone on the beach pitches in as the pangas are drawn, one log at a time, up the beach until they are safely out of the tide line. A couple more affluent captains have trailers which are wheeled into the water, but they are in the minority.</div><div><br /></div><div>When the boats are all safely ashore, local townspeople look over the catch and bargain for the freshest fish. On the day I visited, the pickings were slim, but the men go out again later in the day and hope for better results.</div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI2dpKChLa4AXO1ashyTCRP3GFES8EuIbXWHbut27Fii_6RhKisu8SYlz-d6ZCpWmLSwkiuX4XpTJK5NXomt5U5Hb0WaxoTujgYUgm0Gng_JNnmAnhC1r4Ow-9lKtPMWFFF5Obdb3Sb0/s1600-h/fishermanFish.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI2dpKChLa4AXO1ashyTCRP3GFES8EuIbXWHbut27Fii_6RhKisu8SYlz-d6ZCpWmLSwkiuX4XpTJK5NXomt5U5Hb0WaxoTujgYUgm0Gng_JNnmAnhC1r4Ow-9lKtPMWFFF5Obdb3Sb0/s400/fishermanFish.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310205311791802354" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Walking back to Hotel La Siesta for a late breakfast at the Shrimp Bucket, I arrived at the divers' platform in time to witness the feat which rivals that of Acapulco's famed cliff leapers. Acapulco may have a higher platform, but the water is deeper, making the Mazatlan divers' work more dangerous. </div><div><br /></div><div>I didn't arrive in time to photograph the event, but I did get the opportunity to speak with the diver. His name was Roberto, and he'd been diving for 45 years. His English was excellent and when asked if he ever had been injured, he admitted to a couple scrapes but said he'd never been afraid. </div><div><br /></div><div>Divers do not go off the platform at regular intervals. Usually tour directors contact them when bringing a bus-load of tourists and a fee is discussed. This amount is augmented by any tips the divers receive. Roberto had a handful of U.S. dollar bills.</div><div><br /></div><div>After my Numero Uno breakfast at the Shrimp Bucket, I decided to continue on the aquatic theme by visiting the Mazatlan Aquarium. At the time, the large central tank was cordoned off and improvements were in progress. No matter. The many smaller tanks contained everything which swims, crawls, wiggles or burrows in the seas off the coast. I especially enjoyed the octopus ballet. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV329q2sdRD4LeRKLR6rz6oabXt6aLH9fE2JX0Bm3k6OLr3spkQNV6d8TAANiTHyPwdj7y34r4nSaW6fL5uRnwMK_yqEW8qlBSYRRi3w3Qn2Q51wC12gP2ALLLpkae7t6OVSiyuDrocAE/s1600-h/Octopus.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV329q2sdRD4LeRKLR6rz6oabXt6aLH9fE2JX0Bm3k6OLr3spkQNV6d8TAANiTHyPwdj7y34r4nSaW6fL5uRnwMK_yqEW8qlBSYRRi3w3Qn2Q51wC12gP2ALLLpkae7t6OVSiyuDrocAE/s400/Octopus.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310122183578389842" style="cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>In addition to the fish tanks, the aquarium had a sea lion show starring a very fat and jovial pinnipod performing all her tricks to the delight of the bevy of schoolchildren. Teachers were smooched, fish were fed to the overweight beast, and in a rousing finale, the sea lion raced down its pool, leaped up, and splashed the squealing and giggling assemblage. </div><div><br /></div><div>Fishing was on my mind another day as a group set sail from El Cid Marina in the hope of landing a billfish. Mazatlan is noted as being one of the primo places for landing sailfish and marlin, and in 2009 they will host the 18th Big Game Trolling World Sport Fish Championship. </div><div><br /></div><div>Our boat was the Aries IV with Captain Viktor and First Mate Juan. After powering 25 miles out, Juan prepared the lures and set the lines. Almost immediately three striped marlin hit. Two escaped, but we hooked one. Our valiant friend Alison had quite a fight--30 arm-wrenching minutes of reeling in and playing out. When the marlin finally reached the boat, it was still full of fight, and we almost lost it as it swam under the boat. We were prepared for disappointment, but Juan did not give up. Almost going in the drink, he gaffed the fish and heaved it on board. </div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi81owgb9x22UVtLVP5gXcV2MjS7g0FhtqR7N_MGOcb5sV5NQ7t01CH8alwBjvT6sVzz1G_FXje2zJ0hZsju4NqpgWMTcpCXlmORauN4BQd7vz8tuyVWfuAI6yMBiTAuJiKORbUB_1TJ4Y/s1600-h/MrlinFight.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi81owgb9x22UVtLVP5gXcV2MjS7g0FhtqR7N_MGOcb5sV5NQ7t01CH8alwBjvT6sVzz1G_FXje2zJ0hZsju4NqpgWMTcpCXlmORauN4BQd7vz8tuyVWfuAI6yMBiTAuJiKORbUB_1TJ4Y/s400/MrlinFight.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310122682858025618" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a> <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>We were all a bit giddy with excitement, but when I saw that magnificent creature fighting for breath, I was immediately overcome with regret. Many times the crew will catch and release, but after the long battle and the injury of the gaff, our fish could not be returned to the sea. In cases like this, the captain will donate the meat to a local orphanage or drug rehabilitation house. Knowing this helped me reconcile my conscience a bit.</div><div><br /></div><div>The remainder of the trip was uneventful until just before we had to reel in the lines and head for home. Byron was in the chair when the mahi-mahi hit. At about 20 pounds, it was less of a challenge than the 120 pound striped marlin. The mahi-mahi are sometimes called dorados or dolphins (not the Flipper variety). What a beautiful fish--shades of aqua and gold, its brilliant colors fading fast as it died.</div><div><br /></div><div>It was a good trip, the captain knew his stuff, and we proudly flew out dorado and marlin flags as we returned to the marina. However, for someone who has fished all her life starting with drowning worms for sun fish at an old dock in my hometown, I learned a lesson. Never again will I go after those magnificent billfish. </div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com133tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-72948204931016182802009-03-02T11:05:00.017-07:002009-03-02T14:04:30.277-07:00Mazatlan, Part Three: Machado Sq. & Museums<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvuJjGAw4bCmrh202DnvccmQt2GMEvKP1_fUyt_LvrOxMTPCCkwMm36HTwc5SEyzr3EFVDvJHWSXAb5cWy-aHb4kIA-3z5FqSr3oE3H36iee1qcaIjqRQY7ahrKBMEVBw5L6nJunqdxIk/s1600-h/MachadoPlaza.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvuJjGAw4bCmrh202DnvccmQt2GMEvKP1_fUyt_LvrOxMTPCCkwMm36HTwc5SEyzr3EFVDvJHWSXAb5cWy-aHb4kIA-3z5FqSr3oE3H36iee1qcaIjqRQY7ahrKBMEVBw5L6nJunqdxIk/s400/MachadoPlaza.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308697091752612242" /><br /></a>Mazatlan is a winter haven for snowbirds from the northern U .S. and Canada. Most arrive just wanting to escape the cold and snow, and most spend most of their vacation time sauteing on the beach. Every so often boredom steps in and when it does, they leave the beaches of the Gold Zone and find their way to Machado Square in the heart of Old Town. <div><br /></div><div>The Square is the locus for upscale shops, fine dining, and theater. The shady oasis with its bandshell was named for the Filipino banker who opened the port to the world. In the 19th century the surrounding buildings housed the major businesses of the day plus some family residences.</div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngmfID6io62ZN5dAkDauOuKlBB-kHBqoKpV5eDOfD8XPvLDjlsEt4RLVq08BGNhMnkr0gxUKfONT6piv5f_VUMcaOpH8xiKAn0QqRCoNmuqNcFPq6ideEK044cDPDM4kxjLthyphenhyphenKOVAIg/s1600-h/AngelaPeraltaTheatre3.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngmfID6io62ZN5dAkDauOuKlBB-kHBqoKpV5eDOfD8XPvLDjlsEt4RLVq08BGNhMnkr0gxUKfONT6piv5f_VUMcaOpH8xiKAn0QqRCoNmuqNcFPq6ideEK044cDPDM4kxjLthyphenhyphenKOVAIg/s400/AngelaPeraltaTheatre3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308696148566459058" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The jewel of the area is the Angela Peralta Theater. Originally called the Teatro Rubio, it opened on February 15, 1874 with a three-act drama "The Bell of the Alnudaina" a play by Juan Palou y Coll. A decade later it was to have presented the debut of Angela Peralta, known worldwide as the Mexican Nightingale, but the night before the performance the diva perished of yellow fever next door in the Hotel Iturbide. </div><div><br /></div><div>This may have been a jinx since through the years the theater's fortunes steadily declined from opera to burlesque. In 1975 Hurricane Olivia finished what years of neglect had done to the building, and it was in ruins. In 1986 the long process of restoration began with the efforts Antonio Haas and a group of friends. The current structure is a tribute to their dedication. Built in neoclassical style, the deep sienna exterior with fluted white columns and open balconies is complemented by the interior with its horseshoe design and three levels of balcony seating with balustrades and columns of wrought iron.</div><div><br /></div><div>Adjoining the theatre the Municipal School of Arts holds classes in music, dance, graphic arts, and pottery. The building was constructed in two stages: the first in 1840 as a small hotel and the second in 1873 as the Hotel Iturbide. </div><div><br /></div><div>One corner of the square houses the Machado Museo Casa in the old Canobbio family home, built in 1846. Climb the stairs to the second floor and view a time capsule of the home of "a refined European socialite," Italian immigrants who lived on the upper level and used the ground floor as a drugstore. Included in the room displays is a section on Carnaval costumes. In place of the drugstore, a restaurant now occupies the ground floor. </div><div><br /></div><div>Shoppers find a wide selection of galleries and shops on streets radiating from the square. Casa Antigua on Mariano Escobedo specializes in silver and handcrafts. NIDART on the corner of Libertad and Carnaval houses the workshops of leather artists famous for their colorful Carnaval masks. Gandarva on Constitucion and Casa Etnika on Osuna both have marvelous selections of Mexican crafts, jewelry, and decorative accessories. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWtepL43Xuod27DS4wj6Km1Bx_tEVYMS5p-y1LISMMbZiaSaU_RoDa63Z9nUnn3Qucb7USdsdyx3HCh2WyyS16sXQYAV8Hrh1cD5i_aQmHjIRPNTTF-CLsNqDjgEQI55Nh4_A7Gjeqc2Q/s400/ArchaeologyMuseum2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308696339883924306" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238);"><br /></span></div><div>From Machado Square stroll down Sixto Osuna to the Museo Arqueologico to discover more about the prehistoric past of the region. Sinaloa was never the hotbed of ancient cultures you find in other places in Mexico, but a stop at the small museum is definitely worthwhile. Exhibits are in both Spanish and English, and they chronicle both pre and post-Hispanic times. Of particular interest is the statue of Jorobado de la Nautica, the nautical hunchback, which was discovered in the port excavations. Displays include pots, projectile points, religious objects, and agricultural implements. Sala Four has a reproduction of an ancient pot burial. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Mazatlan's Art Museum is a large building with galleries opening onto a pleasant courtyard. Exhibits come and go, but there are permanent displays of prominent Sinaloa artists. A bookstore carries a huge selection, but unfortunately everything is in Spanish. Unfortunate also are the museum hours, only 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM.</div><div><br /></div><div>Wandering back to my room at La Siesta, I came across a small English lending library with a few 50 cent used paperbacks on a sidewalk rack. Having exhausted all the reading material brought from the States, I stop and select a couple mysteries. A Canadian woman is also seeking reading material, and we stop for a chat about the pleasures of the Historic District.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-47794104368905305242009-02-16T09:50:00.032-07:002009-03-03T08:25:52.231-07:00Mazatlan, Part Two: History, Market, Cathedral<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWgJ4UUjlM_Q2S9IGJClxH11p116ZqTx36n4obvQsZZRHFaaSxs3pKorNHo-TQZFeXvk1Y6m_8LoQmtfe6ikAcJz6cehA8pGzXSvrxuiZLAO0lyNmddUzzjY_U8rFGGRyjyowvlN6EQk/s1600-h/PinoSuarezMkt4.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 218px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWgJ4UUjlM_Q2S9IGJClxH11p116ZqTx36n4obvQsZZRHFaaSxs3pKorNHo-TQZFeXvk1Y6m_8LoQmtfe6ikAcJz6cehA8pGzXSvrxuiZLAO0lyNmddUzzjY_U8rFGGRyjyowvlN6EQk/s400/PinoSuarezMkt4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303799411829649074" /></a><br /><br /><div><br /></div><div>Unlike many of its sister Mexican resorts, Mazatlan did not originate from 20th century developers throwing money at a tiny village along an inviting stretch of sand. <div><br /></div><div>In prehistoric times indigenous people fished its waters, and in the early 16th century the Spanish founded the port as a convenient point from which to ship booty from nearby gold and silver mines. Pirate raids stifled development until 1829 when a Filipino banker named Machado recognized the city's potential as an international seaport. By the end of the 19th century Mazatlan traders were doing business with places as distant as Chile, Peru, Europe, Pacific Asia, and the United States. </div><div><br /></div><div>Mazatlan was shelled by U.S. forces during the 1846-1848 Mexican American War, and in 1864 the French occupied the city which became a part of the Mexican Empire under Maximilian. In November of 1866 the Mexican general Ramon Corona expelled the French, and Mazatlan once again became Mexican. </div><div><br /></div><div>During the Mexican Revolution Mazatlan was the second world city after Tripoli to suffer aerial bombardment. General Venustiano Carranza (later president) ordered a biplane to drop a crude bomb of nails and dynamite on Ice House Hill. The bomb landed on a street an killed two citizens.</div><div><br /></div><div>As bizarre as it seems, many fortune hunters heading for Western gold fields sailed from Mazatlan to San Francisco. They booked passage from New York and other Atlantic ports, then made their way overland to the Pacific.</div><div><br /></div><div>Mazatlan's entry into the tourist trade began in the 1940s when Hollywood discovered the Mexican Riviera. Development began at the fringes of the historic Old Town and continues south to this day. With more than 90 hotel and condo properties including nearly 50 four- and five-star resorts, the Gold Coast has expanded to Nuevo Mazatlan, Marina Mazatlan, and the Diamond Beach area.</div><div><br /></div><div>Although this luxury resort atmosphere appeals to many (the city had 1,728,200 visitors in 2007), it is not my preference. Living in the old quarter, eating at its restaurants, and wandering its streets is the way I roll.</div><div><br /></div><div>On my first full day in the city, I woke at Hotel La Siesta, threw on a robe, and went out on my balcony. The morning was cool and walkers were bundled up as they strolled the Malecon. I hurried to breakfast at the Shrimp Bucket, kicked off my flip flops, and laced up my walking shoes--target Central Market. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI4-T7xeeqD_XKbd5StwlyXAnB6zFqQgv8KZQLWU0977-TfVm_QBZX-woKDRxmM9LVRJLOUoT9NYH8atAmS0TSoBUoLoCr-Ty45hwOtRZLuStJ3NqfjVdhiuTO26w-KDzEhyphenhyphenI1Y71ZQx0/s1600-h/ButcherPinoSuarez2.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI4-T7xeeqD_XKbd5StwlyXAnB6zFqQgv8KZQLWU0977-TfVm_QBZX-woKDRxmM9LVRJLOUoT9NYH8atAmS0TSoBUoLoCr-Ty45hwOtRZLuStJ3NqfjVdhiuTO26w-KDzEhyphenhyphenI1Y71ZQx0/s400/ButcherPinoSuarez2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303479736205623490" style="cursor: pointer; width: 225px; height: 300px; " /></a><br /></div><div>Markets are my particular passion as they are the heartbeat of a town. I was not disappointed in Pino Suarez. Although it was January, the fruits and vegetables were prime. The butchers' cases were filled with both the familiar and the unusual. I may buy trotters for Christmas posole, but I've yet to cook a whole hog's head.</div><div><br /></div><div>Perhaps the best selections were at the fish mongers' stalls. The red snapper was so fresh and clear of eye that I sincerely wished for a place to cook it. And of course there was an abundance of fresh shrimp, langoustines, octopus and other denizens of the briny deep. Between talking with the vendors and taking photographs, I passed most of the morning before realizing that I still had to visit the neighboring cathedral. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynoMKAwo4W4Ajsx5orFvj_34L0BgoYkY_EWhVT_EWkNxwaMhQbOjFERDQMEO1ALjgQr1S3CtzRvJ0g0kUxyjOzrfnsT9aZnC4oFAc-2XFySnN-AvhNzjKyGnMR_KC9bTTmQzFP8VBUcM/s1600-h/RedSnapper.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynoMKAwo4W4Ajsx5orFvj_34L0BgoYkY_EWhVT_EWkNxwaMhQbOjFERDQMEO1ALjgQr1S3CtzRvJ0g0kUxyjOzrfnsT9aZnC4oFAc-2XFySnN-AvhNzjKyGnMR_KC9bTTmQzFP8VBUcM/s400/RedSnapper.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303476472182520178" style="cursor: pointer; width: 225px; height: 300px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Needing the fortification of a sit-down and a cup of coffee, I wandered into Panama, a restaurant and bakery. They filled my needs with a good cup of cafe con leche and the best concha sweet roll I've ever eaten.</div><div><br /></div><div>The cathedral was my last stop of the day before heading back to La Siesta for lunch and a siesta. Actually a basilica (the seat of the regional bishop), the Catedral Basilica de la Purisma Concepcion evidences a Gothic influence on the exterior with its two towers and lateral windows. The interior has three naves, the central one is Gothic, and the lateral ones are neoclassical. Adding to the proliferation of styles, the decor is baroque. Work was begun in 1856 but interrupted in 1875 by President Juarez's Laws of Reform. Parish priest Miguel Lacarra finished the structure in 1899.</div><div><br /></div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheCaQeh6nhORrQSI_BUMZu5Q9cGU2gSvFBHlFJlJaYjRIt09azXAJm0nfYmVXatbThrLNpEDq5OuCZ-gy539LteuSn8yH0dG3E6knZbhy7X8TcIKI1ngCOuJyys66p3Sopk4qHm47XEO4/s1600-h/Cathedral4.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheCaQeh6nhORrQSI_BUMZu5Q9cGU2gSvFBHlFJlJaYjRIt09azXAJm0nfYmVXatbThrLNpEDq5OuCZ-gy539LteuSn8yH0dG3E6knZbhy7X8TcIKI1ngCOuJyys66p3Sopk4qHm47XEO4/s400/Cathedral4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303480263570147682" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 225px; " /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>In a following blog, I'll take you around the area near Machado Square with its museums, shops and galleries.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-28442127815615180102009-02-10T11:29:00.066-07:002009-03-10T09:18:50.499-06:00Mazatlan, Part One: A Tale of Two Cities<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9MrzP97Hiey3XCkP-4VU5VnXmB_If_7QDtA7BNHxDvzbJKSUtYYyHrE_myGnrLSF6mKOfkta0Gz1nT98FLtaP6phCBmyYfKOuc2DULPqUq2KSn2hvVnPIfIwBRTPH5famWISzlmsuQk/s1600-h/OlasAltasSunset.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9MrzP97Hiey3XCkP-4VU5VnXmB_If_7QDtA7BNHxDvzbJKSUtYYyHrE_myGnrLSF6mKOfkta0Gz1nT98FLtaP6phCBmyYfKOuc2DULPqUq2KSn2hvVnPIfIwBRTPH5famWISzlmsuQk/s400/OlasAltasSunset.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301946104854316706" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRW_KcIebYplyN9m-cdN24QXEwB9Y8kYNmG4vU7C6ssdpHtuHXMKRux315ixtilyTIwqfeBzvrfS_oPJ6IO9VjKJDAOtfQpcOFh6pbxIvCsj7ZddR7Oc94oqm4I-z3GzWbo_DJJXaCB94/s1600-h/SunsetOlasAltas4.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 225px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRW_KcIebYplyN9m-cdN24QXEwB9Y8kYNmG4vU7C6ssdpHtuHXMKRux315ixtilyTIwqfeBzvrfS_oPJ6IO9VjKJDAOtfQpcOFh6pbxIvCsj7ZddR7Oc94oqm4I-z3GzWbo_DJJXaCB94/s400/SunsetOlasAltas4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301945743228077250" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">If you've enjoyed only Mazatlan's Gold Zone resorts with their air-brushed ambiance, you don't know Mazatlan, a city with a dual persona. A recent trip to Mexico gave me an insight into the delightful port city whose roots go back to the 17th century and earlier.<br /></div><div><div><br /><div>An error in airline reservations for a conference left me with a quandary. Do I cough up an extra $150 to change my flights, or do I invest that money in discovering the soul behind an uber developed resort? A quick Internet check uncovered several small, traditional hotels which would enable me to spend those open days exploring. The decision was made. The airlines would not get my funds, and I would discover the original Mazatlan, a city older and richer than its modern incarnation.</div><div><br /></div><div>My first bit of luck was selecting the 58-room Hotel La Siesta, located on Olas Altas directly across the Malecon and walking distance to the market, cathedral, museums and shops. Built around the interior patio concept, La Siesta has both interior and ocean-view rooms. I went for an ocean-view room with balcony. It was spanking clean, a bit spare and basic with tile floors, a bath with shower, and airy with windows opening on Pacific breezes. Early mornings found me on my balcony watching the parade of locals and fitness enthusiasts walking the Malecon. Evenings I would read a bit while watching the sun dip below the horizon.</div><div><br /></div><div>Service was impeccable, and front desk personnel were helpful in mapping directions, carting my heavy bags up the three floors to my room (no elevator), and securing taxis or a pulmonia, the open air, golf-car-like transport used all over the city. The pool with its sunning chaises and burbling fountain is in an interior courtyard. In January it was a bit chilly for swimming, but it's a lovely spot when the weather is more moderate. </div><div><br /></div><div>Another bit of fortune was the discovery of The Shrimp Bucket, located on the hotel's first level. Although the name conjures up images of tourist traps, this was not the case. In business since 1963, The Shrimp Bucket is one of the finest seafood restaurants in town. Its breakfasts are legendary, and on weekends the tables are jammed, mostly with locals.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>I probably sampled almost everything from the menu during my stay. For under $5 , my breakfast was either a Numero Uno, fresh squeezed juice, two fried eggs, with crispy bacon, refried beans, toast and jam, and coffee with refills, or Numero Dos, ranch-style eggs with the usual accompaniments. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhow28IDdwfl9JFJgfOcuNvprtFtpJIJXwwxqtp51m50COJiu0H_ASzmP5VjPcQSITo9eGEjT6DTuy2_loLJgVZH8VyssKQWT2e9aXeBVDEkV-PsWHPfBlCi6Cl4-1P0OLUqCeELh90CRs/s1600-h/ShrimpBucketBreakfastWeb.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhow28IDdwfl9JFJgfOcuNvprtFtpJIJXwwxqtp51m50COJiu0H_ASzmP5VjPcQSITo9eGEjT6DTuy2_loLJgVZH8VyssKQWT2e9aXeBVDEkV-PsWHPfBlCi6Cl4-1P0OLUqCeELh90CRs/s400/ShrimpBucketBreakfastWeb.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301945863713574226" style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 225px; " /></a><br /></div><div>Their shrimp tacos were crispy and fresh, tasting of brine and salsa. Their Shrimp Salad Towers for $5.50 were two four-inch portions brimming with shrimp, avocado, carrots, and garnished with cilantro and bell pepper oils. Delicious! I wasn't brave or hungry enough to order their specialty, 15 ($3) or 30 ($21) freshly poached peel-and-eat shrimp in a bucket with lime and a trio of tangy dipping sauces.</div><div><br /></div><div>La Siesta was home base for my city wanderings, which I will describe in following blogs. After returning home and dealing with all the detritus that piles up while you're away, I find myself closing my eyes and imagining myself back on their balcony, watching the parade of life on the Malecon.</div><div><br /></div><div>Note: prices are in U.S. dollars and are subject to change.</div><div><br /></div><div>Hotel La Siesta</div><div>Olas Altas 11 Sur</div><div>Mazatla, Sinaloa, Mexico 82000</div><div>011 (669) 981-2640 (from U.S.)</div><div>www.lasiesta.com.mx </div><div><br /></div><div>www.gomazatlan.com</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-57836910729594407902008-12-06T12:24:00.003-07:002008-12-06T12:34:22.170-07:00Ay Chihuahua, What a Road Trip<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgonRkYUta4tHQ_395HBGiK8o1LgKu7BrMRqXyC0cXV0qVBU3ogpfQI-lRTl3jiSeHPoFDov-ob0AvUTX1CEa_EjnByeitE3FjKadjU24Fh_smZaf0IcV_-lgZVIxaAprjiRQsR1XESZCs/s1600-h/SatevoChurch.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276761928371531522" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 237px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgonRkYUta4tHQ_395HBGiK8o1LgKu7BrMRqXyC0cXV0qVBU3ogpfQI-lRTl3jiSeHPoFDov-ob0AvUTX1CEa_EjnByeitE3FjKadjU24Fh_smZaf0IcV_-lgZVIxaAprjiRQsR1XESZCs/s320/SatevoChurch.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Arrow straight, the highway pierces the great desert stretching south from El Paso and Cuidad Juarez into the Mexican state of Chihuahua. From the border to Ciudad Chihuahua, you traverse 231 miles of arid scrub land, once the floor of a great inland sea and now covered in creosote, yucca, mesquite and palo verde.Heading west and south you pass through Cuauhtemoc and the tidy fields of the Mennonite camps before climbing into the mountains. It's a long haul to Creel, the village that serves as a central hub for exploration of the region best known as Copper Canyon.Copper Canyon Country is comprised not of a single canyon but a 10,000 square mile area riven by seven canyons: Urique, Copper, Batopilas, Sinforosa of the Rio Verde, Tararecua, Cusárare and Conchos. We know these collectively by the Spanish term ABarrancas del Cobre,@ a barranca being a type of canyon in which the walls descend in a series of benches rather than in one sheer drop.Most visitors to this area come via the famed Chihuahua-Pacific Railroad, which runs between Ciudad Chihuahua and Los Mochis in Sinaloa. Although the journey is one of the most beautiful rail trips in the world, it does not descend into the canyon system. It's possible to stop at various stations along the route, but only at Divisadero does the line offer views into canyon depths. This is the most popular place for passengers to disembark, do hurried shopping among the many Tarahumara Indian stalls lining the platform, and snap a few pictures of Urique Canyon, at this point 1,300 meters deep.Our group of explorers decided to forgo the tourist route and go down into the canyons. Making a two-day stop in Creel, our first excursion was a hike to Cusárare Falls. Two routes take you to the falls, the first is 3 km and begins at a trail head approximately 14 miles south on the road to Batopilas. The second trail begins at Copper Canyon Lodge and follows the left-hand side of the river for 4 km to the falls. Although not as high as Basaseachi Falls to the northwest, Cusárare is a heady sight with ribbons of turquoise water spilling 100 feet over a rock face and droplets creating a shimmering rainbow. From the overlook on the heights, you can see children splashing in the pools at the cascade’s base.Returning to Creel for the night, we visited the small museum at the train station and the Tarahumara Mission store where we purchased books, baskets and other Indian-made crafts. By morning we were rested and ready to head out.The road to Batopilas is long and tortuous but unabashedly beautifully. Your views are not of massive rock formations like Arizona's Grand Canyon, but of pine-covered slopes dropping down to silver slips of river. As you descend, you pass through a series of climatic zones from subalpine to subtropical. Flowers bloom all year long in Batopilas and summer nights are really torrid.It's 46 miles of paved road from Creel to Samachique and about 40 miles of one-lane dirt from there to Batopilas. The trip takes a minimum of five hours, and top speed on dirt is 25 miles per hour. There’s not much sign of the fabled Tarahumara Indians unless you happen to make the trip on a Monday, as we did. About two hours after leaving Creel, we saw a small Indian boy hopefully scanning our passing vehicle. Our driver, an expert in the Tarahumara culture, pulled to a stop, climbed from the van and spoke to the child. After a quick exchange, the boy quietly hopped on board. This little hitchhiker was going to school, and like many Tarahumara children, his school was in a distant village. Every Monday he would walk the ten miles to the boarding school, and every Friday he would walk the return ten miles back to his family casita. In this region, no one considers this excessive hardship.In their own language, these people call themselves the Raramuri, or the runners, and their feats of long distance loping are legendary. Two Tarahumara men competed in the 1968 Mexico City Olympic marathon but lost badly complaining over the shortness of distance and the fact that they were required to wear shoes.Dusty and tired we arrived in Batopilas late in the afternoon. The town with a population of approximately one thousand runs three miles along the river's west bank and is only a block or two wide. Arriving at our hotel and quickly unloading our gear, we were back in the van for the drive to Satevó Mission before sunset.Located on a wide stretch of flood plain of the Rio Batopilas, the mission was built in the early 1600s by Jesuits using Tarahumara labor. Imposing and completely out of proportion for its location, it has three domes and a bell tower several stories high. In considerable disrepair, it is still the most impressive edifice in the area unless you consider the Hacienda de San Miguel back in Batopilas. On the east side of the river and visible from town, the large complex served as the office of the local mining company and the residence of Alexander Shepard, one of the area's first silver tycoons. For a modest fee, you can tour the ruins which include the remains of an assay office, refectory, boardinghouse, corral and stables, machine shop, iron foundry, ingot mill and amalgamation sheds.After a simple dinner at one of the few establishments still open during the extensive street excavations, we retired to our rooms, only to be beckoned outside by music emanating from the plaza. Some local musicians had formed a group and were attempting to resurrect an old tradition of weekly concerts. Standing on the sidelines while the music played, children pirouetted and an elderly couple gaily waltzed, we concluded that the rewards of the journey had been commensurate with its difficulty. We’d experienced a part of Copper Canyon Country few travelers get to see.If you go (phone numbers reflect dialing from the U.S.A.)For a visitor’s guide to Chihuahua:Secretary of Commerce and Tourism Development, State of Chihuahua, Libertad No. 1300, Chihuahua, Chih., Mexico, C.P. 31000; Phone (011521) 429‑3421 and (011521) 429‑3320; Email <a href="mailto:cturismo@buzon.chihuahua.gob.mx">cturismo@buzon.chihuahua.gob.mx</a>Self-drive: Contact your local AAA for regulations on taking your own vehicle into Mexico. Accommodations and restaurants:Creel:<a name="QuickMark"></a>Parador de la Montaña, Allende 114 C.P. 31060, Chihuahua, Chih, Mexico; phone 011 (521) 410-4580 or 011 (521) 415-5408.The Lodge at Creel (Best Western), Creel, Chih., Mexico; phone (800) 904-7500 in Mexico, (800) 528-1234 in the U.S.A.; email <a href="mailto:bwcreel@prodigy.net.mx">bwcreel@prodigy.net.mx</a>Cusarare:<br />Sierra Lodge, 20 miles from Creel. For information, (800) 776-3942; for reservations, faxBatopilas (telephone in the city of Chihuahua):Hotel Casa Real de Minas, 011 (521) 456-06-32.</div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-66750661645602380612008-10-23T09:17:00.005-06:002008-12-06T12:33:20.791-07:00Award Double HeaderThis week it's been raining blessings. My book <em>Backroads & Byways of New Mexico: Drives, Day Trips and Weekend Excursions </em>was named a winner in the New Mexico Book Awards. The publisher is The Countryman Press, a division of W.W. Norton, and the guide is available through bookstores and on-line.<br /><br />In addition, I received notice that I had been awarded writer of the year in "2008 Best of Albuqueque," sponsored by the U.S. Local Business Association. I am honored to receive the accolade because no matter where I roam in my writing career, Albuquerque is home--my favorite place on earth.Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-60970688619732202152008-10-14T12:06:00.006-06:002008-10-15T10:35:55.515-06:00International Gastromony & Tourism<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaA4DMWnJ9b0Y9zQhDjQ8rEyrdK0Q2HN7LSziqCP1G0Jbuunw4Kgmo6ehO0WeNPe8HpPFG4bcEAK3ZABLK7oTTs9qB1FILBPS0_rckHET1sq0OO3gJevkmmglsSMHxvtLiRRpjZEmESjQ/s1600-h/CanBoschSpoonsCambrils.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257420267606569938" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaA4DMWnJ9b0Y9zQhDjQ8rEyrdK0Q2HN7LSziqCP1G0Jbuunw4Kgmo6ehO0WeNPe8HpPFG4bcEAK3ZABLK7oTTs9qB1FILBPS0_rckHET1sq0OO3gJevkmmglsSMHxvtLiRRpjZEmESjQ/s320/CanBoschSpoonsCambrils.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIFqDYcLMv3N7HAC9PYA5q0ko4FDMv_149Sxc4Jtgl8_clSWxR7LyXvVnZDD9P10BPShf4mcJ8plUP4ePh9sLZTF7dfkt2vtQZAy8iNJ1wjCcPlqHHE822NhTll91I8HlHIlQS7W02TYI/s1600-h/CanBoschSpoonsCambrils.jpg"></a><br /><br /><div>Put a dozen or so international foodies in a room, give them a couple hours to discuss their culinary traditions, and you have a fascinating afternoon. During the UNESCO International Conference on Creative Tourism, I participated in a symposium on gastronomy and how it influences travel.<br /><br />Within the circle of experts, the lively discussion hit on diverse topics. After briefly introducing ourselves, we discussed our favorite food cities and why their food appealed so strongly. As with many such interactions, the primaries lead quickly into the discussion of culinary issues.<br /><br />One of the first to speak was Julia Chiu from Toronto, who concentrated on the social aspect new regulations had on Japan, especially the inferior material found recently in imports from China. She also touched on the Japanese custom of producing special foods which Asian custom believes a benefit to the elderly.<br /><br />Benedetto Zacchiroli, from the Bologna Mayor’s office, entertained us with tales of his experiences with Italian food in the U.S. Now we know real pasta Bolognese is not made with spaghetti but tagliatelli, the meat is never beef but pork, and the sauce is called ragu. The American version, he commented, is but one example of the globalization of traditional dishes.<br /><br />A representative from Santiago de Compostela provided insights in Galician cuisine, generally misunderstood outside her country. The foods of Spain’s northwestern peninsula are not, as often portrayed, Mediterranean, but Atlantic. The Galician’s catch over 80 different types of saltwater fish, both along their coast and world-wide as well as a tremendous quantity of mussels and other shellfish. Vigo, the largest city in Galicia, is Spain’s most important fishing port and the third largest in Europe.<br /><br />George Poussin, who oversees UNESCO Creative Cities program, spoke of the cult dimension of gastronomy and the “intangible heritage” of traditional cooking. Emphasizing the difference being creativity, he said we need not only protect the past but open new culinary criteria.<br /><br />In addition, he mentioned how difficult it was, especially in developing, countries, to initiate the Creative Cities plan. Currently, there are only 12: Aswan, Egypt; Berlin: Bologna: Buenos Aires: Edinburgh;: Glasgow; Lyon; Melbourne; Montreal; Seville; Popayan, Columbia; and Santa Fe, the only U.S. representative.<br /><br /><br />Perhaps Jo Harvey Allen of Santa Fe voiced the most interesting topic. She has been instrumental in a program electronically joining farmer’s markets around the world. Dubbed “SEE,” it involves ten mammoth LCD screens to be mounted in select growers’ markets, starting with Santa Fe’s well-known Railyard Market. “Markets are the heartbeat of a whole city,” she said, “and we plan to connect time-zone adjusted video installations. If you’re in Barcelona’s Boqueria, you can see the action in Santa Fe.” The program has been funded and a committee is considering appropriate locations.<br /><br />Summing up our feelings as we dispersed to the ballroom to hear Geoffrey Godbey speak, Duncan Sill of the Santa Fe County Planning & Development Division, said, “As travelers, gastronomy is a good way to engage in the human condition.” Amen to that!</div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-79685305832950531572008-10-03T11:40:00.003-06:002008-10-03T12:14:40.097-06:00Conference on Creative Tourism<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisAu0oFGG50oO0v4NzdtadlwH8nhPR3Msp8piNS2jQD65-yrIJFWPc0d8BZMJfl8dnhT_Ij_7ffE1E1zqvmJIUmds3TTURu2y92gVR_AjdmGpwHiGslSNNNdhEoTg6YxDmOpnmw2sNNiQ/s1600-h/Gastronomy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252992662173674434" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisAu0oFGG50oO0v4NzdtadlwH8nhPR3Msp8piNS2jQD65-yrIJFWPc0d8BZMJfl8dnhT_Ij_7ffE1E1zqvmJIUmds3TTURu2y92gVR_AjdmGpwHiGslSNNNdhEoTg6YxDmOpnmw2sNNiQ/s320/Gastronomy.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>In the first global gathering of its kind, delegates from around the world met in Santa Fe this week to explore the concept of Creative Tourism. The comprehensive program included talks, seminars, and interaction with Santa Fe artists, musicians, filmmakers, photographers, craftspeople, and business experts.<br /><br />What is creative tourism? The definition developed cooperatively by UNESCO’s Creative Cities is “engaging travelers in a community’s culture through active participation which provides the visitor an authentic experience of a community’s heritage”. The goal is to promote the social, economic, and cultural development of municipalities in both the developed and developing world.<br /><br />Why did UNESCO choose the city format?<br /><br />1. Cities harbor the entire range of cultural actors throughout the creative industry chain from the creative act to production and distribution.<br />2. As breeding grounds for creative clusters, cities have great potential to harness creativity, and connecting cities can mobilize this potential for global impact<br />3. Cities are small enough to affect local cultural industries but also large enough to serve as gateways to international markets.<br /><br />Santa Fe holds the distinction of being the only Creative City in the U.S., joining Aswan, Berlin, Bologna, Buenos Aires, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Lyon, Melbourne, Montreal, Popayan, Columbia, and Seville.<br /><br />I was able to attend the Wednesday session, and in the following days, I will discuss our roundtable on Gastronomy, which attracted delegates from Japan, France, Santiago de Compostela, Barcelona, Bologna, as well as several of us New Mexicans.<br /><br />In addition, I hope to share with you ideas from a fascinating lunch speaker, Geoffrey Godbey, a specialist on re-positioning of leisure and tourism services for the future.<br /><br />Stay tuned!</div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-14765581513130178542008-09-24T11:04:00.005-06:002008-09-24T11:15:58.826-06:00Santa Fe Conference on Creative TourismTo every avid traveler, there comes a time when home is best. Healing from skin cancer surgeries, I've been a two-month recluse, and I apologize to my readers for my lack of communication. Next week I'll be crawling out of my cave into the light of day--however with a 55 SPF sunblock and a jaunty new Tilley wide brim hat. <br /><br />The UNESCO Santa Fe International Conference on Creative Tourism will be held September 8-October 2, and I will be on the scene reporting. The program focuses on providing the skills and knowledge necessary for developing creative tourism programs. Attendees will experience practical applications and learn through sessions with some of the world's foremost leaders in the field. Tune in for my take on the proceedings.Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-53443037860585109112008-07-08T09:59:00.005-06:002008-07-08T10:33:44.178-06:00Just When It Was Safe to Go Into the Woods...<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP3zQM2Eb-6I4lgOT3jXMSE8NvFuZuMGE_0RSp8fttgAjfBWYFMUTxKifCGX0IivVFdXvJ30QfjJhOhr1-tQDU43z1A3GcmlkLm3u26Bpktxv9qj30D7Mt_cgdLsOKLLXUnUCO0b5YRLU/s1600-h/SallyCache.blog.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220678948120652514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP3zQM2Eb-6I4lgOT3jXMSE8NvFuZuMGE_0RSp8fttgAjfBWYFMUTxKifCGX0IivVFdXvJ30QfjJhOhr1-tQDU43z1A3GcmlkLm3u26Bpktxv9qj30D7Mt_cgdLsOKLLXUnUCO0b5YRLU/s320/SallyCache.blog.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii5Au41Hd97Om4ETrfpmkwlT5pbMIkMXXFGc2ZLGx1G5jdlsoc9r1Jz3BcN14pqLrjCD1mJYflZX9RzLJoKuPMV1d8n0z72iE_5DCGhx4P3d74CEETUQ7YfPskDgointufQDCtbqoekak/s1600-h/DrainBridge.blog..jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220678953281450290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii5Au41Hd97Om4ETrfpmkwlT5pbMIkMXXFGc2ZLGx1G5jdlsoc9r1Jz3BcN14pqLrjCD1mJYflZX9RzLJoKuPMV1d8n0z72iE_5DCGhx4P3d74CEETUQ7YfPskDgointufQDCtbqoekak/s320/DrainBridge.blog..jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>For your first experience at Geocaching, I suggest you steer clear of timing your trek to coincide with a July mid-afternoon in New Mexico. This cautionary tale is based on sweat, exhaustion, and frustration, all of which could have been avoided with a bit of common sense.<br /><br />For husband Dick’s recent birthday, our children decided to present their dad with the latest in electronic gadgetry, a Global Positioning System (GPS) unit. After a few auto jaunts with our in-car navigator, we figured we’d give the popular new sport of Geocaching a try.<br /><br />For those not keeping up with the trends, Geocaching is a seek and find game where participants use a GPS to unearth hidden containers or caches. Locally we have hundreds. A typical cache is a waterproof container, frequently an old Army ammo can, filled with a logbook and “treasure,” usually trinkets or toys. Geocaches are registered on various websites. We downloaded our selected cache’s coordinates from <a href="http://www.geocaching.com/">http://www.geocaching.com/</a>.<br /><br />To make our search easier, we selected to find our cache in the Rio Grande Nature Center, a nearby state park. This year New Mexico Geocachers in cooperation with New Mexico State Parks are celebrating the parks’ 75th Anniversary by placing a cache in each of the 34 state parks. A prize is awarded for cachers completing the entire series by December 31, 2008.<br /><br />The Rio Grande Nature Center is a serene oasis along the river bosque in Albuquerque. Included on the riverine site are interpretive nature trails, demonstration gardens, a visitors center with numerous exhibits, and a wetland blind overlooking a pond filled with Canada geese, native and migrating waterfowl, a brace of lazy turtles, and in summer a swarm of hummingbirds.<br /><br />Having worked as a volunteer at the Center, I figured finding this cache would be easy and quick. Experienced cachers would probably have found the exercise easy. We made several mistakes. Not fully understanding the workings of our GPS unit was the first; not taking a supply of water, the second; and walking the trails at noon was the third. We hiked and hiked. Every time we got close to one coordinate, the other was wrong. Finally we stopped and asked a park ranger. He laughed and pointed to the spot where I stood. It was within three feet.<br /><br />Now we have 1/34th of our list complete. It was fun, but the next time we go Geocaching, we will be sure of our equipment, try to find the place in early morning or evening if in summer, and carry plenty of water.<br /><br />To round off the day, we drove downtown for lunch at one of the Burq’s top boutique pizza places, Il Vincino. Our shared 12-inch wood-oven-fired Testarosa featured marinara sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni, roasted red peppers, calamata olives, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and fresh oregano, all washed down with big glasses of their in-house brewed root beer.<br /><br />For a cooling dessert, we walked a couple doors down to Ecco Gelato for a cup of one of their daily 22 flavors. I tried a sample of the strawberry habañero. What a flavor explosion! It starts out smooth and sweet, ending at the back of the palate with a pepper blast. Perhaps the next time I’ll go for the full cup, but that afternoon I settled on fig and orange paired with the honey apricot, an agreeable reward for a day of bushwhacking.<br /><br />Rio Grande Nature Center, 2901 Candelaria NW, Albuquerque, 87107. Hours: Gate opens, Monday-Sunday, 8 AM to 5 PM; Visitors Center, 10 AM to 5 PM. Admission $3 per vehicle. Leashed dogs allowed only on the path bordered by a fence that extends west from Candelaria NW (guide dogs excepted).<br /><br />Geocache web site: <a href="http://www.geocaching.com/">http://www.geocaching.com/</a><br /><br />Il Vicino, 3403 Central Ave. NE, Albuquerque 87106. 505-266-7855. Hours, Sunday-Thursday, 11 AM to 11 PM; Friday and Saturday, 11 AM to midnight.<br /><br />Ecco Gelato, 3409 Central Ave., Albuquerque 87106. 505-660-4721. Hours, Monday-Thursday, 7 AM to 10 PM; Friday and Saturday, 7 AM to 11 PM; Sunday, 8 AM to 10 PM. </div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-32282812422763198822008-06-16T12:52:00.019-06:002008-06-19T09:49:00.765-06:00The Mystery of the Hidden Pueblo<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQV9zXYViz5IizkXbAXcvuusV9kA2rg_HUW1M8dfR4qJS0WHZKl4wJBjwNbeJpTBk3eHN8XiF845oeB6_qXZqyobev4AFJuTG80umXin-Q3CTA-dyKH-VZElBtALVeiu8MUlhet1hULEM/s1600-h/ShardsBlog.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212562291371158834" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQV9zXYViz5IizkXbAXcvuusV9kA2rg_HUW1M8dfR4qJS0WHZKl4wJBjwNbeJpTBk3eHN8XiF845oeB6_qXZqyobev4AFJuTG80umXin-Q3CTA-dyKH-VZElBtALVeiu8MUlhet1hULEM/s320/ShardsBlog.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkxOiN9dpRHg08MriSHgfcKFH3lv1DGZ4gf-PsejiFap7U1POaczzUFkBP3u65UIVok8BGy1D0mcAi9V3bSALYzYAJlzyzsOxYmhpFEmcwLBO_DlJR4UbuVHFWhAwhctRsNAjsTi3VIVE/s1600-h/Schmader.girl.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212557051978382114" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkxOiN9dpRHg08MriSHgfcKFH3lv1DGZ4gf-PsejiFap7U1POaczzUFkBP3u65UIVok8BGy1D0mcAi9V3bSALYzYAJlzyzsOxYmhpFEmcwLBO_DlJR4UbuVHFWhAwhctRsNAjsTi3VIVE/s320/Schmader.girl.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div align="left"></div><br /><div align="left">Discovering Piedras Marcadas was like finding Machu Picchu in your backyard. I’ve written about Albuquerque’s new Open Space Visitors Center before, but until this past weekend I had no idea they protected treasures like this pueblo as well.</div><div align="left"></div><br /><div align="left">A part of the Petroglyph National Monument, Piedras Marcadas or Marked Stones, was a pueblo occupied between AD 1300 and the mid-1500’s. With three main multi-storied structures and over 1,000 rooms, it is the largest remaining intact pueblo in the middle Rio Grande Valley.</div><br /><div align="left"></div><div align="left">If the pueblo was so large, why haven’t we seen ruins, or why hasn’t it been reconstructed like the pueblo at Coronado State Monument? The answer is part luck and part preservation. In the 1940s and 1950s archaeologists were everywhere in the Rio Grande Valley, digging and hauling artifacts away to museums. At that time Piedras Marcadas was on private land, and the site had only a small home.</div><div align="left"></div><br /><div align="left">By the early 1980s the landowners wanted to develop the land for condominiums. In a forced move, the city purchased the property for open space. Due to the religious connection between the ancient residents and the rich concentrations of petroglyphs on West Mesa, the pueblo was included in the Petroglyph National Monument’s boundaries.</div><br /><div align="left"></div><div align="left">To provide an introduction to the tour, city archaeologist Matt Schmader gave a 45-minute talk on the history of the terrain and the people who inhabited it. We learned paleo-Indians wandered our land as early as 12,000 BP. Before Coronado and his depredations, dozens of pueblos rimmed the Rio Grande. </div><div align="left"><br />Our visit was a rare privilege. The location is fenced and locked and open only for special events such as the talk and tour organized by the Visitors Center. As we plowed through a crop of dead weeds, we made our way to the first of three mounds. No foliage grew there. Under a layer of sand, the old adobe walls provide an obstruction to growth. Pot shards, grinding tools, and flint knapped chert covered the ground.</div><br /><div align="left"></div><div align="left">As we walked from area to area, Schmader fielded questions and pointed out exceptional examples of different types of pottery. A frantic killdeer mother scurried this way and that, pretending a broken wing to lure us away from her clutch of four speckled eggs. A metate, abandoned a century ago, rested near a patch of buffalo gourd.</div><br /><div align="left"></div><div align="left">Out of respect for today’s Tiwa people, who are direct descendents of the ancient villagers, new non-invasive methods using electrical current are being used to delineate structures. It is a work in progress. Piedras Marcardas will never be uncovered using the old methods of excavation. It will sleep peacefully under its blanket of sand, safe for further generations.<br /></div><div align="left"><br />City of Albuquerque Open Space Visitor Center<br />6500 Coors Blvd NW<br />Between Montano Blvd. and Paseo del Norte at the end of Bosque Meadows Rd<br />Albuquerque, NM<br />(505) 897-8831<br /><a href="http://www.cabq.gov/openspace/visitorcenter.html">www.cabq.gov/openspace/visitorcenter.html</a><br /></div><br /><div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-32626022468522579112008-06-04T12:45:00.002-06:002008-06-04T12:53:38.076-06:00Dem Dry Dino Bones<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeqSWtKFp952x1WqdZdnYzPSzZarnjOTmczh07DmM_cffwudMN3YUQ6_9AfcuyrJMsLv_q-Epd1n8c1_EaD2mxpx0Z6-TSZix6OrQmRefc-7nNRUhw1fL5ZdC5N8Soc3PWgVnG0jMDUL8/s1600-h/AgeGiantsV.blog..jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208099917832512018" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeqSWtKFp952x1WqdZdnYzPSzZarnjOTmczh07DmM_cffwudMN3YUQ6_9AfcuyrJMsLv_q-Epd1n8c1_EaD2mxpx0Z6-TSZix6OrQmRefc-7nNRUhw1fL5ZdC5N8Soc3PWgVnG0jMDUL8/s320/AgeGiantsV.blog..jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Wanna’ feel like a kid again? Hustle over to the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science. Greeting you as you enter the lobby, Stan, the Tyrannosaurus Rex, assumes a threatening pose. After your first introduction to ancient bones, start your “walk through time,” by hastening up to the second floor where you begin with “Origins,” an introduction into the beginnings of life on earth. All fossils and artifacts were discovered in New Mexico.<br /><br />From single-celled organisms to the age of super giants, the Jurassic, it’s an experience in awe and wonder. You progress through the dawn of time when New Mexico actually had a seacoast, to the explosive Age of Volcanos, the evolving Grasslands, the Pleistocene represented by a cave mock-up, and the Ice Age.<br /><br />In the new Triassic exhibit you view the battle between the crocodile-like Phytosaur and the armored Placerias. If this doesn’t give you the shivers, nothing will. A two-ton piece of rock from the Ghost Ranch near Abiquiq illustrates how pile on pile of fossilized bone can present paleontologists with a merry puzzle.<br /><br />From the Dawn of the Dinosaurs, the Triassic, you progress into the Age of the Super Giants, the Jurassic. It’s impossible to describe the feeling of puniness standing next to the immense plant-eating Seimosaurus, locked in battle with the meat-eating Saurophaganax (see photo). The big lizard’s name means “earthquake lizard,” and it’s 110 feet long from snout to tip of tail. It weighed about 30 tons.<br /><br />Your next stop is the Extinction Room which illustrates in sound and light the devastation caused by the huge meteor which is believed to have finished off the big boys in the preceding exhibit.<br /><br />After completing up your explorations, you can attend a show at the Planetarium or visit the Lockheed Martin Dynatheater presentations of “Dinosaurs Alive!” and “The Living Sea.” Check out the interactive Nature Center, or pick up a souvenir at the Nature Works store. The museum’s M Café is a great place to stop for a snack or a meal. I’d especially recommend their green chile stew.<br /><br />New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science, 1801 Mountain Road NW (Old Town), Albuquerque. 505-841-2800. Daily, 9 AM to 5 PM. <a href="http://www.nmnaturalhistory.org/">http://www.nmnaturalhistory.org/</a>.<br /></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-29138973497908891172008-04-28T15:59:00.006-06:002008-06-04T12:58:08.628-06:00Zacatecas, Mexico<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvOYOAOUY9prT5C9S4dvNkFQGprjTuLciazbyISPTUedzZJAp7Omo5acykwb4fwccj0CJiinKlsutaf8cyGGoT_6YSiVsjYR3RTZpNCTX9CQiSdm_ktwB7ISjbpM3_EEGtQWz7X0bowLw/s1600-h/CathedralOverview.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5194795800940335666" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvOYOAOUY9prT5C9S4dvNkFQGprjTuLciazbyISPTUedzZJAp7Omo5acykwb4fwccj0CJiinKlsutaf8cyGGoT_6YSiVsjYR3RTZpNCTX9CQiSdm_ktwB7ISjbpM3_EEGtQWz7X0bowLw/s320/CathedralOverview.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAAsg2jC6es6uRr3px6voopaCzGU-8AIMAWnaNd0e0w3FVyEQe2l3Aj0XzVm3VstojaHLDatJTDFFFNHEk4dzU-KCbVa5YqpKaih3JXaAinjm241s8pVvY15iDJtdZlB8dNnghA2R1DFc/s1600-h/LaQuemadaColumns.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5194422542512509458" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAAsg2jC6es6uRr3px6voopaCzGU-8AIMAWnaNd0e0w3FVyEQe2l3Aj0XzVm3VstojaHLDatJTDFFFNHEk4dzU-KCbVa5YqpKaih3JXaAinjm241s8pVvY15iDJtdZlB8dNnghA2R1DFc/s320/LaQuemadaColumns.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6Bi34h_HCYl28QedEdvi3BzOV3GPd3UJcoT9de2RngVmI32ncBTdFl87YI3EQ_tUFZTG_5kBc4bifWjvDKAicuBuuB7RHuHDpYw6dt50iDO0ldsGSakg8XO8xuXKKHsDTTk6tVGnw3w/s1600-h/Cathedral3.Zacatecas.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><div>Deep in the mine, the guide’s flashlight beam illuminated the vein of white quartz streaked with a tracing of pure silver ore. On such a slender thread was Zacatacas founded by Spanish miners in the 16th century.<br /><br />Today Zacatecas rests like a rose in the desert of what was once Mexico’s northern frontier. And like that rose, its pink canterra stone buildings glow in the clear, clean light. Called “The Silver City” for its origins, today Zacatecas offers travelers a wide variety of experiences from a tour into the only remaining mine to a exhilarating ride on a zip line from the heights of La Bufa hill into the valley.<br /><br />For the museum lover, even a week’s stay is too short to cover them all. A full day can be spent at the Rafael Colonel with its extraordinary collection of over 12,000 Mexican dance masks. Museo de Guadalupe has one of the country’s finest collections of 18th century religious art, housed in what was originally a Franciscan convent.<br /><br />A trip into the countryside brings amateur archeologists to La Quemada, a group of prehistoric ruins perched on the rim of a hill. After investigating the Hall of Columns and the Votive Pyramid, an alfresco lunch at a local restaurant is the ticket.<br /><br />Unusual hotels include the Quinta Real, constructed around the city’s original bull ring, and Meson de Jobito, a rambling assembly of plazas, alleys, and houses centered around an old city neighborhood. Food runs from the traditional gorditas at legendary Dona Julia’s to fine dining at the Hotel Empirio or the new Santa Rita.<br /><br />Turismo Zacatecas, Av. Hidalgo#403, Centro Historico, Zacatecas, Zac. Phone +52 (492) 922 6751. <a href="http://www.tourismozacatecas.gob.mx/">http://www.tourismozacatecas.gob.mx/</a><br /><br /><br /><br />…</div></div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-66529138596150122072008-03-09T15:48:00.003-06:002008-03-09T15:57:37.932-06:00A New Generation Views Los Alamos<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpKUqREeTr4i79WfmLZ5okBayoDYtfFq8cinlVcamTU0d-Sme6eTpN8VLST3-48ej1sSOSKLYxF1ULcXzTf7XG5Eyci6B0VYYbpfMWKj5cWw9NdtZ05e8cSo4TE2-vEnBAsnBBhNf5bhM/s1600-h/LosAlamos01.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5175864110896685090" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpKUqREeTr4i79WfmLZ5okBayoDYtfFq8cinlVcamTU0d-Sme6eTpN8VLST3-48ej1sSOSKLYxF1ULcXzTf7XG5Eyci6B0VYYbpfMWKj5cWw9NdtZ05e8cSo4TE2-vEnBAsnBBhNf5bhM/s320/LosAlamos01.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Whenever guests arrive for a prolonged stay, they usually have certain attractions on their list of places to see. One of my least favorites is Los Alamos. As a child of the atomic age who remembers her dad bringing home an 8mm reel of the bombing of Hiroshima, I still have that horror implanted in my psyche. For those who were born after the end of WWII or for those who never saw the news clips of the human and property devastation visited upon Japan, Los Alamos is merely a tourist attraction on New Mexico’s Pajarito Plateau.<br /><br />Recently our daughter, son-in-law, and teenage grandson wanted to drive up through the Jemez Mountains to Los Alamos. We agreed to mount the excursion but included some other, gentler sites such as Valle Caldera National Preserve, Jemez Pueblo, and the tiny city of Jemez Springs. For our grandson, it was to be a history lesson wrapped up as an outing.<br /><br />For travelers unfamiliar with Los Alamos, it is a city unlike any other in New Mexico, perhaps in the U.S. First, the cultural mix, so obvious in the rest of the state, is missing. Instead of Anglos, Hispanics and Native Americans, you find an international amalgam of highly educated nuclear physicists, chemists, and other branches of science. Los Alamos schools always come out on top in state ratings, and the per capita income is also highest.<br /><br />In 1917 in what is now Los Alamos, a wealthy Detroit businessman named Ashley Pond purchased the Harold H. Brook homestead. His dream was to create a school dedicated to transforming sheltered boys from wealthy families into robust scholars. By 1918 his vision was a reality in the Los Alamos Ranch School.<br /><br />During the dark days of World War II, the U.S. government embarked on the Manhattan Project, a top secret venture to tame the power of the atom. They had five considerations for the location of their lab: available housing for 30 scientists, land owned by the government or easily acquired in secrecy, and area large and uninhabited enough to permit safe separation of experimental sites, easy control of access for security, and sufficient cleared land so new building could be started immediately.<br /><br />The Los Alamos Ranch School was selected because J. Robert Oppenheimer, the director of scientific research, knew about the academy. His family summer home was in the mountains at the headwaters of the Pecos River, and as a boy he’d ridden over the mesas of the Pajarito Plateau on pack trips.<br /><br />After the detonation of bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Japan surrendered and World War II ended, but the work at the labs has gone on with half the effort devoted to the peaceful uses of atomic energy. Detailing the history of the labs and the city, the Bradbury Science Museum has 8,500 feet of exhibit space devoted to interpreting the role of the laboratory to the lay public. To envisage an authentic picture of the time period, no one should miss the 20-minute video, <em>The Town That Never Was</em>.<br /><br />Located next to the Bradbury, Otowi Station Science Museum Shop & Bookstore has the best selection of books on Los Alamos, the region, and New Mexico in general. In addition, they stock tee shirts, educational toys, stuffed animals, etc. Of course our grandson had to have an atomic bomb tee to impress his buddies back in New Jersey. Maybe I should dig out that old film clip.<br /><br />The Los Alamos Historical Museum, housed in the former Ranch School infirmary, is a personal favorite. Here, more than anywhere else, you get an idea of the flow of time and events. Exhibits deal with area geology and prehistory, homesteading, the Ranch School, and the Manhattan Project. A small bookstore is in one wing of the building.<br /><br />Los Alamos has two restaurants of note, The Blue Window Bistro for fine dining, and The Hill for solid diner food. As we pulled into the Hill parking lot, we noticed a great many customers leaving with Styrofoam containers. This should have told us something. The portions are huge! My chicken fried chicken with mashed and glazed carrots would have fed three normal hungers. Their special, banana cream pie, almost defies description. We shared three pieces among five people, and even our grandson with his teenage appetite couldn’t finish his portion. We left Los Alamos totally surfeited with food, returning to Albuquerque via the highways rather than the byways.<br /><br /><br />The Bradbury Science Museum, Central Avenue and 15th St, Los Alamos, 87544. (505) 667-4444. <a href="http://www.lanl.gov/museum">www.lanl.gov/museum</a><br /><br />The Hill Diner, 1315 Trinity, Los Alamos, 87544. (505) 662-9745. <a href="http://www.hilldiner.com/">http://www.hilldiner.com/</a><br /><br />Los Alamos Historical Museum, 1921 Juniper Street, Los Alamos, 87544. (505) 662-4493. <a href="http://www.losalamoshistory.org/">http://www.losalamoshistory.org/</a> </div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-84779298055264786202008-03-03T09:56:00.003-07:002008-03-03T10:31:04.550-07:00Albuquerque Aquarium & Rio Grande Botanical Gardens<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimRzUfb4iiva0K-65ExY9dSg9jYNDCV-tDEDhp94OdhYaTrO20rW_M4ylxpHcJIiGAjp-2Hn_RhXHYH43q0ch8kYJfv2h3ah66YkjMsOwLozJm0gmQL27zFLsclNZNi6RMX7dFRsKhVio/s1600-h/BioPkChildGdnDragon.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5173569002466420546" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimRzUfb4iiva0K-65ExY9dSg9jYNDCV-tDEDhp94OdhYaTrO20rW_M4ylxpHcJIiGAjp-2Hn_RhXHYH43q0ch8kYJfv2h3ah66YkjMsOwLozJm0gmQL27zFLsclNZNi6RMX7dFRsKhVio/s320/BioPkChildGdnDragon.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU1RiEsVayEHji5e6hyFhsrEOVFUz9ZrFQ6PWYVohWUN5EYTKmJ3sN7ZLbEc0YZzl1_mIgoGie147lIgql1fxp34bVE9hacSC_8-PQzOsA2LB5m1VYbSOGJBkuyPwYW_Ht543e9T1_BlM/s1600-h/ABQAquariumRedFish.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5173568800602957618" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU1RiEsVayEHji5e6hyFhsrEOVFUz9ZrFQ6PWYVohWUN5EYTKmJ3sN7ZLbEc0YZzl1_mIgoGie147lIgql1fxp34bVE9hacSC_8-PQzOsA2LB5m1VYbSOGJBkuyPwYW_Ht543e9T1_BlM/s320/ABQAquariumRedFish.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IrXUcJyJekqosv7f-JOmamUQcWVmBGXLZOSHijr0F1AJIoMJuLNTJmiwrh-M_hHFwD2eNpzZNFtkFgK-sAYEHUvpg8Qs0aybtgcs1GH3yplbDIFXY-TFk_t7cq8a4z3Bqc0J65vxWlg/s1600-h/BioPkChildGdnDragon.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Spring was definitely showing her slip on a recent visit to Albuquerque’s Botanical Park. Delicate snowdrops dipped their heads to the breeze, and saffron and purple crocuses showed their true colors.<br /><br />Although it was very early for garden tours, children of all ages were out enjoying the early March warmth. Toddlers staggered through the Children’s Fantasy Garden, whizzed down the tree trunk slide, watched the G-scale model railroad threading its route through miniature landscapes, and in general attempted escape from parental control. Ducks and geese made a noisy confusion at pond edge. Older couples walked arm and arm, checking out plant varieties and wondering when the flowering trees would pop.<br /><br />Activity at the Heritage Farm was just beginning. A lazy Jersey heifer and a couple of somnolent sheep stretched out in the weak sun. The vegetable garden had been plowed, and the vineyard looked ready to leaf out. A single white Peking duck nibbled new green shoots, and in the chicken coop a few hens tentatively tested the weather. Lazy pigs, too exhausted to move from the barnyard door, made small moan.<br /><br />In addition to the Gardens, the Farm and the Japanese garden (which we shall cover in another visit), the Park is the site of Albuquerque’s Aquarium. Don’t expect another Atlanta extravaganza. The floor plan is considerably more modest, but it takes visitors on a journey down the Rio Grande from Albuquerque to the river’s mouth in the Gulf of Mexico. Special highlights include an eel tunnel, luminous jellies, and a 285,000 gallon ocean tank where sharks swim alongside reef fish, sea turtles, and open ocean species. On the day of our visit we saw several new-born black tip shark pups.<br /><br />A perfect end to our visit was lunch at the Shark Reef Café with its multiple aquarium windows and broad wall backing on the Aquarium’s shark tank. Children love this place, and it was packed with kids, parents, and grandparents, all taking in the constantly moving panorama swimming by. We found the food excellent, well above the usual burgers and fries. My Shark Reef Breakfast plate was a mélange of home fries, sausage, bacon and ham topped with cheese, chile and an egg. The half serving ordered was enough for two! My husband’s guacamole burger was tasty, well presented, and served with a crisp green salad. Breakfast is served all day.<br /><br />Those with shorter time frames can view much of the Biopark, which includes the Zoo, by hopping aboard the narrow guage ¾ scale <a href="http://www.cabq.gov/biopark/trains.html#TEZ#TEZ"><span style="color:#000000;">Thunderbird Express</span></a> which travels between the Zoo and Aquarium/Botanic Garden with a stop at Tingley Beach. The Biopark is handicap accessible, and both stroller rentals and wheelchairs are available.<br /><br />Albuquerque Biopark<br />2601 Central Ave. NW<br />Albuquerque 87104<br />(505) 848-6200<br />Hours: Monday through Sunday, 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM; Saturday & Sunday (June-August only) 9:00 AM through 6:00 PM<br /><a href="http://www.biopark@cabq.gov/">http://www.biopark@cabq.gov/</a><br /><br />The Reef Café, (505) 646-7182<br />Hours: 9:00 AM to 6 PM Saturday and Sunday in summer: 9:00 to 5:00 rest of the year.<br />.</div></div></div></div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-43796161723440175752008-02-26T14:34:00.009-07:002008-06-20T09:44:23.478-06:00Natural Albuquerque: Our Open Spaces<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcxzDA04I_S83VXwqd3bKjLlKbcupTs9Apa_D8zkjFoyVtxUF0rPLIBvXJXNiSwL36GflM7MqKgsmy-3n9xAvAikxBrwSAuUPek436sw802shGDAzJKCj9OntJoNZLWm0TCe1VW6oKRNM/s1600-h/Sandhills3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5171408945272900530" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcxzDA04I_S83VXwqd3bKjLlKbcupTs9Apa_D8zkjFoyVtxUF0rPLIBvXJXNiSwL36GflM7MqKgsmy-3n9xAvAikxBrwSAuUPek436sw802shGDAzJKCj9OntJoNZLWm0TCe1VW6oKRNM/s320/Sandhills3.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVcQy8AH72iCMwLyy2Q4x54sO0FKX40NsXdntpSRrudp43U9ZPSy3F5vYohBFqA7KrP8q5VdM4jbmVjrcah9SiHSYIJh8WLcrqU3A5BXoRqBpJwYE1cTz5rCQBlH2UiZJQM6O97L3QcQ/s1600-h/SandhillsLanding2.jpg"></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUYuy_py7nEIQgzp23oxNDmk9ep0nTrq-iA7qZJWGGRqj8o_3aaSZrPmVHGyXxQyvCnzSFipnep4-P6DVzYG7zxcrblOX0TqVyukup9wfeoVpQzuL2qgRRpWPKiXEuz40dj1BfLE1q938/s1600-h/EntranceVert.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5171407772746828690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUYuy_py7nEIQgzp23oxNDmk9ep0nTrq-iA7qZJWGGRqj8o_3aaSZrPmVHGyXxQyvCnzSFipnep4-P6DVzYG7zxcrblOX0TqVyukup9wfeoVpQzuL2qgRRpWPKiXEuz40dj1BfLE1q938/s320/EntranceVert.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXr2ZVc_VUyqjY2__C8ZkdzQcFxO18siuYHhi-VheLCB4t_oxNgGSfN4zwUly9JsRQJX0WFcg6ziT3Ts-scR7FcKqmD82KtEeMqVUUzP_XoLyfu8L5sTOWWtjojhB5Ds_oN6a1lvIc28/s1600-h/Sandhills2.jpg"></a><br />A duet of high-altitude clacking drew my eyes upward as a pair of sandhill cranes negotiated two mammoth cottonwoods and gracefully landed on the cornfield in back of Albuquerque’s Open Space Visitor Center. A kettle of their stately compatriots were making short work of the recently cut agricultural field specially planted for their delectation.<br /><br />The late winter day was in the 30s, and I knew we were fortunate to see the cranes before they undertook their yearly spring migration to Nebraska’s Platte River. Wintering along the Rio Grande Valley from Albuquerque to Bosque del Apache and south, they are one of the delights of our region.<br /><br />It was my first visit to the Center and I was impressed by the facility, which had opened in 2006. Perhaps I hadn’t visited before because it was so darn accessible, a short distance off Coors Boulevard on the West Side where I live. I’d brushed it off thinking it probably was some uninspiring shack on the bosque. I was so wrong.<br /><br />The center sits on 55 acres, half of which is harvestable cropland planted in sorghum for the wildlife, and half contains the unexcavated site of Piedras Marcadas, prehistoric pueblo ruins. The building was originally the private residence of Mr. and Mrs. Coda Roberson. Little evidence of the home remains since the structure has been transformed into a multi-use facility with an art gallery, meeting rooms, kitchen, exhibit space interpreting the natural and cultural resources Open Space protects, and lots and lots of big windows opening out to one of the most beautiful views in Albuquerque. The Center hosts special art exhibits and educational programs throughout the year.<br /><br />Albuquerque’s Open Space program is one of the most ambitious in the Southwest. Since 1969 the city has acquired more than 24,000 acres of open space land, and it manages another 4,000 acres. To name a few plots, this includes Elena Gallegos/Albert G. Simms Park at the base of the Sandias; Rio Grande State Park including Alameda/Rio Grande wetlands; Rio Grande Nature Center; Los Poblanos Fields; and in Petroglyph National Monument a number of areas of cultural and geologic importance like Piedras Marcadas Canyon, Boca Negra Canyon, and Rinconada Canyon.<br /><br />To support the city’s program, the Open Space Alliance (OSA) is a group of volunteers working with the town to preserve, maintain, and improve our natural, historical, and cultural resources. Funded solely through membership dues, the OSA provides a tax-exempt means for citizens, organizations, and corporations to donate to the city’s Open Space Division.<br /><br />The cranes will soon be gone on their unending journey between nesting and wintering grounds. They will be missed as we trace their journey by the faint sounds of their passing. As the seasons transform the unparalleled views of bosque and mountains, visitors in the know will stop at this quiet place for hiking the river trail, nature study, and contemplation.<br /><br />City of Albuquerque Open Space Visitor Center<br />6500 Coors Blvd NW<br />Between Montano Blvd. and Paseo del Norte at the end of Bosque Meadows Rd.<br />Albuquerque, NM<br />(505) 897-9931<br />www.cabq.gov/openspace/visitorcenter.htm<br />Open Space Alliance<br />P.O. Box 91265<br />Albuquerque, NM 87199<br />(505) 452-5200<br />www.openspacealliance.org </div></div>Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3007009242388997231.post-57450824776477399072008-02-12T10:48:00.000-07:002008-02-12T10:58:42.265-07:00Pueblo Women Artists<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiunkvHRHViu2QHySMyW9FMcTshZ9y93e73fSh-i_flnAWsMMreMoJmUP4bGebC4CzEgr4xNma8j8YIYE29Q2FsLYOhG9AlJyuekSe8pWmkeeHJ-tD7_lBvDzQ-IgacZ-ZOUWGJHwFCZQo/s1600-h/IndianPuebloCultCtrtVert3.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiunkvHRHViu2QHySMyW9FMcTshZ9y93e73fSh-i_flnAWsMMreMoJmUP4bGebC4CzEgr4xNma8j8YIYE29Q2FsLYOhG9AlJyuekSe8pWmkeeHJ-tD7_lBvDzQ-IgacZ-ZOUWGJHwFCZQo/s320/IndianPuebloCultCtrtVert3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166154190225197938" /></a><br />On a hot, humid summer day in the upper Susquehanna River Valley, I discovered a passion. Always a hound for hand-thrown pottery, I went on a day trip to visit my favorite Pennsylvania craftsman, Bill Lynch of Penns Creek Pottery. After a sojourn with Bill and lemonade and cookies with his wife and family, I decided to continue on to Mifflinburg, a tiny town known mainly as the site of a buggy museum and a store selling Amish quilts.<br /><br />Strolling down the quiet streets I came upon an old white Georgian home advertising antiques. It looked deserted but a jangle on the bell brought the stooped, grey-haired proprietor to the door. <br /><br />“Wha’ cha’ lookin for,” he queried without much grace. “Old Indian stuff,” I replied. I’d visited the Southwest recently and admired the Pueblo pottery. “Well, I got some arrow heads,” he said. When I shook my head, he reached under the counter and brought up a pot. “Had this ugly black thing for 30 years, and I’d like to ride myself of it. You can have it for $25.” I almost fainted. He had a 1920 Santa Clara wedding vase. Of course, I paid the ridiculously low price, grabbed the vase, and ran out the door like a thief in the night. <br /><br />Eventually I moved to New Mexico, the genesis of my treasured pot. Luckily Albuquerque and Santa Fe are rife with museums highlighting Native American art. Currently, the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in collaboration with the Adobe Gallery of Santa Fe is presenting “Timeless Beauty: Pueblo Women Artists of the 20th Century.” <br /><br />Represented artists include Maria Martinez of San Ildefonso; Lucy Lewis, Acoma; Pablita Velarde, Santa Clara; Helen Hardin, Santa Clara; Margaret Tafoya, Santa Clara; Helen Cordero, Cochiti; Tonita Pena, San Ildefonso/Cochiti; and Blue Corn, San Ildefonso. <br /><br />Not all are potters. Paintings include Pabilta Velarde’s watercolor of Mimbres Turtles and Helen Hardin’s geometric abstracts like “Medicine Woman.” If you’re attracted to pottery, you won’t want to miss Blue Corn’s eggshell polychrome pot or Helen Cordero’s storytellers, which she described as coming “out of my heart. They’re singing. Can’t you hear them? I talk to them. They’re my little people. Not just pretty things I make for money.”<br /><br />Leaving the exhibit room I walked over to a single display attributed only to an early Santa Clara potter. Before signing became the norm, potters did not dignify their work this way. The huge black storage pot had a true timeless quality and lent a baseline for the remarkable pottery which came after. Its rag and stone polished surface mirrored the finish of my old wedding vase, and I wondered once again at the skill, talent, and patience which created such timeless beauty.<br /><br />Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, 2401 12th St. NW, Albuquerque 87104; (866) 855-7902. www.indianpueblo.org. Timeless Beauty runs through June 14.Sally Moorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10601408673845773378noreply@blogger.com3