Tut Comes to the Burque

For a place once described by writer V.B. Price as “A City at the End of the World,” Albuquerque continues to amaze. Case in point is the current exhibit at The Albuquerque Museum of Art and History. “Temples and Tombs, Treasures of Egyptian Art from the British Museum” is currently enjoying a three-month run. How the American Federation of Arts and the Brits picked our humble town for such an honor is a happy mystery.

The exhibition covers four periods of pharaonic history from shortly before the Third Dynasty, about 2686 B.C., to the Roman occupation of the Fourth Century A.D. Sculpture, reliefs, papyri, jewelry, cosmetic objects, and funerary items in various media illustrate four themes: the king and the temple; objects from the lives of artists and nobles; statues of Egyptians from temples and tombs; and the tomb, death, and the afterlife.

From the magnificent life-size red granite lion which greets you when you enter the gallery to the carved quartzite head once gracing a twenty-five foot statue of Amenhotop III, the 85 exhibits run the gamut from intriguing to awe-inspiring. Sometimes it is the small pieces which create the greatest wonder. How did a wooden scribe’s palette survive the centuries with its paint samples still intact?

Temples and Tombs” will end its run February 10 and move on to Fresno, so hustle your bustle to the museum before it departs. If you should miss “Temples,” other good traveling exhibits are scheduled: Bill Brandt: a Retrospective, March 2-May 18; In Contemporary Rhythm, the Art of Ernest Blumenschein, June 8-September 7; and Jamestown, Quebec, and Santa Fe, Three American Beginnings, October 26-March 29, 2009.

In addition to the major transient exhibits, the permanent collection of works by contemporary and historical regional artists includes major paintings by the Taos Society of Artists. A gift shop carries a wide selection of quality merchandise and books, and a small cafe provides sustenance for starving art lovers. Outside visitors can stroll through the sculpture garden filled with over 50 works, some traditional some avant-garde. A favorite is the giant head which from a distance appears to be a near-sighted sculptor's version of a pig.

The Art Museum is a bargain any time of the year. Admission to the Temples exhibit is so reasonable and is included in the admission fee, $4 for adults with a $1 discount for New Mexico residents.

The Albuquerque Museum of Art & History, 19th and Mountain Road NW, Albuquerque 87104. Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. (505) 243-7255. http://www.cabq.gov./museum. Lots of free parking!

One of Santa Fe's Greatest

With all the gorgeous hotel properties in Santa Fe, what makes La Fonda stand out as “the” place to stay? A recent visit made me consider its distinctive qualities.

La Fonda’s unusual character is found not just its history, of which there is ample evidence. There’s been an inn on the site since the city was founded in 1607. Two centuries later another incarnation served travelers on the Santa Fe Trail. The current building dates to 1922, and in 1925 it was acquired by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, which in turn leased it to Fred Harvey, the marketing genius behind the promotion of the West through his chain of Harvey House hotels and tours. Since 1968, the massive adobe monolith overlooking the Plaza has been locally owned and operated.

From the outside, La Fonda is not remarkable among its brown brethren except for its size. You might even walk by with small notice except for the cluster of shops which line its sides. Perhaps you have stopped for a croissant at the French Pastry Shop on the West San Francisco side or bought a Western style belt from Tom Taylor. If you haven’t shoved through the old wooden doors and entered the lobby, you’ve missed the heart of the city.

At first dim and cavernous, the lobby takes a minute to come together. Settees of wood and leather line the walls, and the dark tile floors gleam with polished patina. But as your eyes become accustomed to the soft light, you begin to pick out the thick wooden beams, latilla ceilings, carved corbels, handcrafted chandeliers, and tin and copper light fixtures. The lobby, hallways and meeting rooms are filled with paintings, carvings, historic photos. Art is everywhere. In particular, I admire the ten great figures by Ira Diamond ”Gerald” Cassidy, immortalizing outstanding figures of the great Southwest. The Matachine is a particular favorite, and I always spend a minute or two admiring the massive portrait.

At the heart of the hotel, the main dining room, La Plazuela is enclosed in an interior courtyard with soaring ceiling, ornately carved furniture by local artisans, folk art murals, and over 400 windows painted with birds, chiles, and flowers by resident artist Ernest J. Martinez, who started working at La Fonda in 1954.

Martinez’s work is one of the things which make La Fonda special. His paintings grace not only the public rooms but many of the guest rooms as well. My room on the second floor carried a kachina theme and bore examples of his work in the head board, nightstands, blanket chest, desk, dresser, and the glass panes of the door leading to the sitting area. After so many nights spent in cookie-cutter accommodations, my room at La Fonda was a visual joy, and I slept well watched over by my kachinas.

La Fonda on the Plaza, Santa Fe, (505) 982-5511

Santa Fe Budget Restaurants

Although Santa Fe is touted as “the city different,” perhaps it should be known as the city of restaurants. On a recent trip, I discovered two new watering holes which deserve mention for visitors.

A problem I’ve always encountered on visits is finding a good, reasonable place to eat on the Plaza. So many times walking down Lincoln Avenue, I’ve passed by The Plaza Café. Usually packed, I’d erroneously assumed it was just another tourist trap with bad food, depending for its existence on its great location.

Was I wrong! The truth is that The Plaza has a varied, reasonably-priced menu with something for everyone. In fact, it’s a good alternative for the visitor trying to avoid another dose of chile or whose tastes run to simple comfort food like meatloaf or a hot turkey sandwich. If someone in the party wants chile, they too will be satisfied with the complete menu section of Southwestern cuisine: enchiladas, tostadas, and chile rellenos. A surprise is a selection of Greek dishes such as moussaka, gyros, and kebabs. After all, what would you expect from the owners, the Raztos family, which has run the restaurant for 61 years?

Another Plaza plus is the hours. They are open from 7:00 A.M. to 9:00 P.M., seven days a week. This was handy for me because when I’m working, I usually discover I’ve missed lunch by 4:00 P.M. Both my visits were mid-afternoon.

On the first visit, I ordered the batter fried cod with garlic mashed potatoes and a small Greek salad accompanied by pita bread. The cod (my favorite fish) was immaculately fresh and the coating crisp and not at all greasy. Sides were well done, and the pita was the best I’ve ever tasted. Owner Dan Razatos has it imported, and it’s soft and chewy. Except for the pita, all baked goods are done on premises including their award-winning cakes and pies. I sampled their carrot cake and found it praise-worthy.

My second lunch/dinner was a gyro, a lovely combination of beef and lamb wrapped in one of those delicious pitas and sauced with the cucumber/garlic/yoghurt sauce known as tzatziki. It was so huge that it defied hand-held attempts at consumption. A spicy tortilla soup accompanied it. What a blend of cultures.

A second Santa Fe restaurant discovery was The Pantry, on Cerillos Road. Definitely a favorite for locals, it was packed to the rafters when I stopped for a light lunch on my way south to Albuquerque. The light lunch went by the wayside when I saw the menu with another favorite, grilled liver and onions. The meat was perfectly done, not overcooked. So often liver ends up as shoe leather. The presentation was massive with mashed potatoes and an ocean of grilled vegetables.

With a varied menu and reasonable prices, The Pantry is open for breakfast and lunch. Breakfasts run the gamut from cinnamon French toast to breakfast burritos. A nice touch is the ability to order according to your appetite. You may request one or three pancakes, and for $1.35 they’ll toss in some buckwheat to make heartier flapjacks. Lunches include sandwiches, burgers, soups, salads, Southwest plates, comfort food like pork chops, and a local delicacy, the Frito Pie, a heap of corn chips covered with beans and meat, and buried under melted cheese with red or green chile. Try to visit the Pantry on slightly off hours or be prepared to wait in line for a table or a place at the counter.

Although Santa Fe’s great restaurants like The Compound and Geronimo’s definitely deserve a visit, they are reserved for special occasions for most of us with modest budgets. It’s good to know that you can find a decent meal, properly prepared without taking out a second mortgage. On your next visit, be a bit adventurous and eat where the locals go.

The Plaza Cafe, Lincoln Avenue, Santa Fe, (505) 982-1664
The Pantry, 1820 Cerillos Road, Santa Fe, (505) 986-0022