Patzcuaro: Where Gods Descend

An old guidebook lists Patzcuaro as a town frequently visited by tourists.  Today's publications might not be as generous, and that is a shame since the small colonial city in Michoacan is a jewel and has been named one of Mexico's Magic Towns.  A recent business trip took me to Morelia, the capital of the state, and with some time to explore, I drove the 33 miles into the hills.  

Writer Edna Fergusson aptly describes the place in her book Fiesta in Mexico:  "a colonial town which retreats into soft hills away from the Indian lake."  Before the Spanish conquest Patzcuaro was one of three principal centers for the Purepecha Indians.  Settled about 1324 by Rey Cuarteme, the indigenous population called it "the city of stones" and believed it to have been the doorway to heaven where the gods ascended and descended.   

True to form, the early Spanish occupation was brutal.  Nuno Guzman de Baltran visited many atrocities on the Purepecha including burning alive the local chief when he wouldn't disclose where the Indian gold was hidden.  Guzman's crimes were so egregious that the Spanish authorities were forced to arrest him.  In his place they sent Vasco de Quiroga, who became somewhat of a local saint, establishing schools, hospitals, and introducing the craft cooperatives in nearby villages.  Although those cooperatives did not survive as such, many villages surrounding Patzuaro still specialize, making the area one of the most culturally rich in Mexico.

The town itself is in the high sierra at an altitude of 7,130 feet.  Most of the buildings are single story adobe or plaster over brick with red tile roofs.  The central plaza, Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, is locally known simply as Plaza Grande.  A statue of the region's benefactor stands in the center, and small shops ring the square. 

A short distance from the plaza the Casa de los Once Patios (House of Eleven Patios) is being transformed from its previous existence as a Dominican nunnery into studios for artisans. Many local stores specialize in embroidery and lacquerwork.  

Patzcuaro is known for its Dance of the Viejitos (Old Men).  Brandishing canes, spryly cavorting, and flirting with the young girls, the dancers wear colorful masks designed to mimic wrinkled ancients.  The troop performs at the Posada de Don Vasco on Wednesday and Saturday nights and on many weekends at the Plaza Grande.  If you are lucky and a good bargain hunter, you might be able to buy one of the hand-carved masks at one of the local emporiums.

East of downtown the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Salud (Basilica of Our Lady of Health) was built by Bishop Quiroga between 1546 and 1554 as a cathedral, but only one nave was completed.  It contains a statue of Our Lady made of wild orchids and thick corn paste, a technique typical of Indian sacral art. Quiroga also build the Cathedral of Michoacan in 1546. Today it is the Jesuit church.   South of the basilica the Colegio de San Nicolas, founded in 1540 by Quiroga, now houses the Museum of Popular Arts and Archaeology with exhibits of carvings, pottery, weaving and artifacts. 

No description of Patzucuaro would be complete without a mention of beautiful Lake Patzcuaro and its islands: Janitzio, Jaracuaro, Uranden, Pacanda, Yunuen, and Tecuena. The large shallow lake is home to the Indian fishermen with their much-photographed butterfly nets.  To reach any of the islands, go to the muelles (docks) to catch a boat.   The wood launches depart on a semi-regular schedule, and you can purchase tickets at a dockside office.

Janitizio island is almost 100 percent Purepecha and is the site of one of Mexico's most famous Day of the Dead festivals.  If you decide to visit the island, be prepared for a long, steep hike to the summit where the huge, primitive statue of revolutionary leader Jose Maria Morelos crowns the rocky hill.  On our visit, we did not land on Janitizio due to time constraints, but did take the ride to photograph the fishermen, who were netting tips, not fish.

 

In addition to the attractions in the town and on the lake, Patzcuaro is surrounded by small villages specializing in crafts.  My favorite is Santa Clara del Cobre, 13 miles from city center. Although the local copper mines are no longer active, artisans still make everything from napkin rings to cooking vessels using recycled copper.  At the Museo del Cobre you can watch while the ore is heated, pounded into ingots, and finally hammered into desired shapes with one of three finishes:  high shine, fire bloom, or unpolished.  The owners speak English and can take you through the whole process or advise you on purchases from their large selection.  I came away with a pot for fudge or whipping egg whites and a large repousse platter.  If you don't find what you want at the Museo, there are 50 other shops from which to choose.

Tzintzuntzan is worth the 11 mile drive to visit the remains of the 16th century Franciscan monastery with its ancient olive trees and for its main street market selling Indian made ceramics and basketry crafts.  Don't miss the Las Yacatas archaeological site on a rise overlooking the town and the lake.  The peaceful site was the last stronghold of the prehistoric Purepecha people, and for a small fee you can stroll the grassy knoll with its reconstructed stone step pyramids and outline of the emperor's house.

Patzcuaro and vicinity has some culinary specialties:  sopa tarasca, a local variation of tortilla soup; coronas, pyramid shaped tamales; fish, especially charales, the tiny lake fish  eaten whole; and in nearby Quiroga, carnitas, a lard confit of all parts of the pig stewed in a copper pot and served on a bun.  Not for the faint of heart.

Where I stayed and dined:

Hotel Posada de Dan Vasco (El Tarasco Restaurant), Av. Lazaro Lardenas, 450, Col. Centro, Patzcuaro, Michoacan. (01-52) 434-342-02-27.   Lovely but not easy walking distance to town, approximately 2 miles.

Mansion de Suenos (Priscills'a Restaurant), Ibarra No. 15 Centro, Patzcuaro, Michoacan 61600.  01-434-342-57-08.  www.prismas.com.mx 

El Rey de las Carnitas, Portal Hidalgo No. 6, Quiroga, Michoacan.  (01 454) 354 03 50.  

New Mexico Historic Hotels: Two Different Fates

The demolition of grand old hotels is a ongoing tragedy.  A new exhibit at the Albuquerque Museum illustrates the glory which once was the Duke City's Alvarado, and a recent stay at Silver City's  Palace Hotel illustrates the obstacles some of these antiquated properties face accommodating the modern traveler.

The magnificent Alvarado was the inspiration of the Fred Harvey Indian Department working in conjunction with the AT&SF railroad..  Built in 1902, the complex extended two city blocks. Constructed in the Mission style of wood frame with a red clay tile roofing, the complex included a railroad depot and offices, hotel, restaurant, and a museum and gift shop united by a 200-foot arcade and 4-foot exterior walls.  The walls were surfaced with steel lathe and rough gray Portland cement stucco.  The upper levels had projecting parapets and towers influenced by California missions and included features like pierced facades used for hanging bells and four-sided bell towers with open arches. 

 

Perhaps the Alvarado's best loved featured was the Indian and Mexican Building Museum, which was positioned along the arcade south of the lunchroom and within reach of passengers traveling on the railroad.  The Indian Room held native work from the regions linked by the railroad, and the Spanish Room featured a collection of Spanish, Mexican, and New Mexican art.  The salesroom had shelves of southwestern pottery and the Navajo jewelry the Harvey Company specially commissioned for its appeal to travelers.  As a child I had two Harvey bracelets, and one daughter collects them.

Unfortunately, time and the economy was not kind to the Alvarado, and in spite of heroic efforts by Albuquerque. Historical Society, it fell victim to the wrecking ball in February 1970. An auction was held, and everything was sold off to eager buyers.  Fortunately, those buyers valued the material, which often was donated to the museum.  These artifacts are the basis of the current exhibit, which runs through June 7, 2009.  It is comprehensive.  You'll find everything from the trademark Syracuse Denmark china and Gorham Churchill silver to door hardware from the Cocina Cantina, the one-time lounge.  

On a recent fact-gathering trip through southern New Mexico, I had the opportunity to stay at one of the state's still-operating historic hotels , The Palace in Silver City.  The imposing building with its cast iron front was built for the Meredith and Ailman bank in 1882. Converted to a hotel in 1900, the new owner Max Shutz "spared no pains or expense to make the new hotel an up-to-date house in every respect...(with) every modern hotel convenience such as closets, bath rooms (sic), electric lights."

The Place has experienced many ups and downs since then.  Purchased by Cal and Nancy Thompson in 1990, the hotel has been restored and refurbished with the help of the Main Street Project and the New Mexico Historical Preservation Office.  For aficionados of old properties with a Victorian flair, The Palace has some predictable eccentricities.  There are no elevators, and the climb to the second level is long.  At the head of the stairs, a sitting room doubles as the breakfast nook.  Rooms split off the long, narrow halls and vary greatly in decor.  

Since I booked late, no single rooms were available, so I reserved a suite.  My "suite" consisted of two rooms divided by a bath consisting of tub/shower and toilet.  The quarters were so crowded that my knees touched the tub while perched on the throne.  The larger of the two rooms was dark with a blocked window and contained a king bed, a dressing table, end table and sink. The smaller room which overlooked the street had a rump-sprung coach, a television, microwave, sink, and a small refrigerator.   This was definitely not the Ritz.

After a continental breakfast in the morning , I stuck my head in several rooms which were waiting for the maid and discovered several brighter, more pleasant accommodations.  Next time I'm in Silver, I'll call ahead and try for one of the quarters with a queen bed.  Room 70 was especially inviting.  

Two hotels, one still hanging on with the patronage of travelers willing to  put up with some inconvenience, one destroyed for a parking lot.  I'll take the inconvenience any day.

The Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, 19th & Mountain Road, NW, Albuquerque 87104,  (505) 243-7255.  Closed Monday.  Fee.  www.cabq.gov.museum 

For information on existing Harvey Houses, go to Fred Harvey Harvey Houses www.harveyhouses.net/index.html 

The Palace Hotel, 106 Broadway, Silver City 88061.  (575) 388-1811.  www.zinanet.com/palacehotel 

Mazatlan, Part Five: Get Out of Town

In addition to a vibrant cultural center, accommodations for all tastes and pocketbooks, and a wide array of restaurants, Mazatlan is home base for tours into the nearby town of La Noria as well as gateway to the Sierras.

La Noria (the Well in Spanish) is a scant 20 miles northeast of Mazatlan.  An agricultural community with a tradition of leatherwork and saddle-making, it's a regular destination of city tour groups.  Although the town is attractive and colorful, most groups head out to the tequila factory after a brief stroll around the plaza, a visit to St. Anthony's church, and perhaps the purchase of a stamped leather belt or a pair of huaraches. 

 

Compared to the Jalisco distilleries, La Vinata de los Osuna is a compact operation capable of producing 540 gallons day.  In truth, their product cannot be officially called tequila because it is not produced in Mexico's specifically designated area, the D.O.,  in the northwest.  Their "tequila" however, is 100 percent blue agave and is made in the traditional way, which is demonstrated on the tour. 

First, the agave is cultivated in the fields for 8 to 10 years

 before it is ready for harvest.  The plant is cut, trimmed, and taken to the distillery where the pinas are quartered and roasted in primitive pit ovens (for demonstration purposes) or autoclaves.  When the pinas' starches are converted to sugars, at Osuna they are crushed with a stone wheel drawn around a circular trough by a mule, then shredded to extract their juice, called aguamiel.   Fermented in pot stills, the resulting liquid is distilled at least twice.   

Tequilas are rated by the amount of aging:  silver is either not aged or aged for a minimum of 60 days in stainless steel tanks; reposado is aged in wooden tanks for at least two months; and anejo is aged in wooden barrels for a minimum of 12 months.  Los Osuna falls somewhere in the reposado range.  It doesn't compare to the quality of my personal favorite, Don Julio, but it's a good low-proof tequila.

After a tour of the facilities, the palapa bar opens so guests may sample the wares.  During our trip Tequila Sunrises and Margaritas, were served, but if you wish to get the true flavor of their product, ask for a caballo or pony.  I don't go for the salt and lime action but prefer to sip slowly to determine the full flavor and quality.

If you want to extend your Sinaloa experience, you can travel 75 miles to Cosala. Named a Heritage Site and Pueblo Magico by Mexican tourism officials, Cosala is It is located northwest of Mazatlan between Sinaloa and the state of Durango.  Cosala means in the Cahita language "place of the beautiful landscape." 

The village lives up to its name and cries out  to be explored on foot,  street by street.  Founded as The Royal Mines of the Eleven Hundred Virgins of Cosala in the 16th century, Cosala's architecture is distinguished by thatched roofs and tile-crowned cornices.  The patios and adobe walls are framed by painted moldings which contrast colorfully with building exteriors.  A palm shaded plaza with fountain is surrounded by shops, restaurants, the city hall, and the Jesuit and Franciscan convents.  Stop at the Santa Ursula Temple, built in the 18th century;  peruse the documents, old photographs, mineral samples and pre-Hispanic and colonial metal objects at the Museum of Mining and History; or sample the local cuisine at El Merendero, El Pueblito, or El Sazon de Dona Tichi restaurants around the plaza.

   

Thursday evening there is a folklorico presentation at the museum.  The Hacienda Quinta Minera Hotel is clean, attractive and convenient to the downtown area.  Its gardens, pools and patios encourage relaxation.

Just five miles from the town, Vado Hondo Waterfall Adventure Park provide pools for swimming in warm weather and a challenging zip line, ropes, and bridge course.  Two of our group tried it out and frankly admitted they were terrified.  Local women prepared us a delicious picnic lunch of blue corn tortillas, grilled flank steak and grilled spring onions.

 

Another afternoon we visited the Ecological Reserve of Our Lady Mineral, where they are attempting to bring back the endangered Mexican Green Macaw.  There's not a whole lot to see except for a large cage of birds they are trying to rehabilitate.

 

Leaving the reserve, we drove to Lake Comedero, where we were met by Steve McMahon, who, with his three partners, built a fantastic fishing lodge a few clicks from the local docks. This place is a bass fisherman's paradise with its secluded coves and 100 miles of shoreline.   The Lodge is fronted by a palapa bar with views of the lake and mountains.  There are 12 rooms including several suites and several with shared baths.  They have fully equipped bass boats and provide guides to make the most of time on the water.   Unfortunately, we didn't have the opportunity to test Steve's boast of lunkers awaiting our lures.   

www.bassadventures.com

www.haciendaquintaminera.com.mx/contactoe.htm

Mazatlan, Part Four: Go Fish

One morning I hopped out of bed, threw on my clothes, and hit the Malecon in the hope of finding the location of Fisherman's Beach.  Every day in Mazatlan you can look out on the ocean and see local fisherman in 20-foot pangas with outboard motors.  I wanted to find where they brought in their catch, and in spite of numerous questions, I never could get a straight answer. So I walked and walked, determined not to stop until I located the site.

Mazatlan has the largest shrimp fishing fleet in the Pacific, and yearly the huge boats bring in 40,000 tons of the succulent crustaceans to the commercial docks.  Although it's interesting to watch the unloading and grading process, I was seeking something different--the men who day after day go down to the sea in small boats.

As the light brightened, I strolled past the exquisite monuments which mark the Malecon:  the Stag; the Carpe Olivera (my favorite), a mermaid in pike position; La Mazatleca, a tribute to the town's beautiful women; La Clavista, dedicated to the daring high divers; and the statues of a man and woman accompanied by dolphins, a celebration to the Continuity of Life.   Rounding Punta Chile with its Maritime College and Punta Tiburon with the March 31st Fort, I looked out to sea and saw I was in time to see the men bring in their morning catch.

The process is as old as fishing the waters and decidedly practical, a lesson in making do with what's available.  As the small open boats approach the beach, the crews hop out and run to the seawall where a pile of logs are stacked.  Taking the logs to the surf, they place one under the bow and roll the boat unto that support.  Everyone on the beach pitches in as the pangas are drawn, one log at a time, up the beach until they are safely out of the tide line.  A couple more affluent captains have  trailers which are wheeled into the water, but they are in the minority.

When the boats are all safely ashore, local townspeople look over the catch and bargain for the freshest fish.  On the day I visited, the pickings were slim, but the men go out again later in the day and hope for better results.

Walking back to Hotel La Siesta for a late breakfast at the Shrimp Bucket, I arrived at the divers' platform in time to witness the feat which rivals that of Acapulco's famed cliff leapers. Acapulco may have a higher platform, but the water is deeper, making the Mazatlan divers' work more dangerous.  

I didn't arrive in time to photograph the event, but I did get the opportunity to  speak with the diver.  His name was Roberto, and he'd been diving for 45 years.  His English was excellent and when asked if he ever had been injured, he admitted to a couple scrapes but said he'd never been afraid.  

Divers do not go off the platform at regular intervals.  Usually tour directors contact them when bringing a bus-load of tourists and a fee is discussed.  This amount is augmented by any tips the divers receive.  Roberto had a handful of U.S. dollar bills.

After my Numero Uno breakfast at the Shrimp Bucket, I decided to continue on the aquatic theme by visiting the Mazatlan Aquarium.  At the time, the large central tank was cordoned off and improvements were in progress.  No matter.  The many smaller tanks contained everything which swims, crawls, wiggles or burrows in the seas off the coast.  I especially enjoyed the octopus ballet.  

In addition to the fish tanks, the aquarium had a sea lion show starring a very fat and jovial pinnipod performing all her tricks to the delight of the bevy of schoolchildren. Teachers were smooched, fish were fed to the overweight beast, and in a rousing finale, the sea lion raced down its pool, leaped up, and splashed the squealing and giggling assemblage.  

Fishing was on my mind another day as a group set sail from El Cid Marina in the hope of landing a billfish.  Mazatlan is noted as being one of the primo places for landing sailfish and marlin, and in 2009 they will host the 18th Big Game Trolling World Sport Fish Championship. 

Our boat was the Aries IV with Captain Viktor and First Mate Juan.  After powering 25 miles out, Juan prepared the lures and set the lines.  Almost immediately three striped marlin hit. Two escaped, but we hooked one.  Our valiant friend Alison had quite a fight--30 arm-wrenching minutes of reeling in and playing out.  When the marlin finally reached the boat, it was still full of fight, and we almost lost it as it swam under the boat.  We were prepared for disappointment, but Juan did not give up.   Almost going in the drink, he gaffed the fish and heaved it on board. 

 

We were all a bit giddy with excitement, but when I saw that magnificent creature fighting for breath, I was immediately overcome with regret.  Many times the crew will catch and release, but after the long battle and the injury of the gaff, our fish could not be returned to the sea.  In cases like this, the captain will donate the meat to a local orphanage or drug rehabilitation house. Knowing this helped me reconcile my conscience a bit.

The remainder of the trip was uneventful until just before we had to reel in the lines and head for home.  Byron was in the chair when the mahi-mahi hit.  At about 20 pounds, it was less of a challenge than the 120 pound striped marlin.  The mahi-mahi are sometimes called dorados or dolphins (not the Flipper variety).  What a beautiful fish--shades of aqua and gold, its brilliant colors fading fast as it died.

It was a good trip, the captain knew his stuff, and we proudly flew out dorado and marlin flags as we returned to the marina.  However, for someone who has fished all her life starting with drowning worms for sun fish at an old dock in my hometown, I learned a lesson.  Never again will I go after those magnificent billfish.  

Mazatlan, Part Three: Machado Sq. & Museums

Mazatlan is a winter haven for snowbirds from the northern U .S. and Canada.  Most arrive just wanting to escape the cold and snow, and most spend most of their vacation time sauteing on the beach.  Every so often boredom steps in and when it does, they leave the beaches of the Gold Zone and  find their way to Machado Square in the heart of Old Town.  

The Square is the locus for upscale shops, fine dining, and theater.  The shady oasis with its bandshell was named for the Filipino banker who opened the port to the world.  In the 19th century the surrounding buildings housed the major businesses of the day plus some family residences.

The jewel of the area is the Angela Peralta Theater.  Originally called the Teatro Rubio, it opened on February 15, 1874 with a three-act drama "The Bell of the Alnudaina" a play by Juan Palou y Coll.  A decade later it was to have presented the debut of Angela Peralta, known worldwide as the Mexican Nightingale, but the night before the performance the diva perished of yellow fever next door in the Hotel Iturbide. 

This may have been a jinx since through the years the theater's fortunes steadily declined from opera to burlesque. In 1975 Hurricane Olivia finished what years of neglect had done to the building, and it was in ruins.  In 1986 the long process of restoration began with the efforts Antonio Haas and a group of friends.   The current structure is a tribute to their dedication. Built in neoclassical style, the deep sienna exterior with fluted white columns and open balconies is complemented by the interior with its horseshoe design and three levels of balcony seating with balustrades and columns of wrought iron.

Adjoining the theatre the Municipal School of Arts holds classes in music, dance, graphic arts, and pottery.  The building was constructed in two stages: the first in 1840 as a small hotel and the second in 1873 as the Hotel Iturbide.  

One corner of the square houses the Machado Museo Casa in the old Canobbio family home, built in 1846.  Climb the stairs to the second floor and view a time capsule of the home of "a refined European socialite," Italian immigrants who lived on the upper level and used the ground floor as a drugstore.   Included in the room displays is a section on Carnaval costumes. In place of the drugstore, a restaurant now occupies the ground floor. 

Shoppers find a wide selection of galleries and shops on streets radiating from the square.  Casa Antigua on Mariano Escobedo specializes in silver and handcrafts.  NIDART on the corner of Libertad and Carnaval houses the workshops of leather artists famous for their colorful Carnaval masks.  Gandarva on Constitucion and Casa Etnika on Osuna both have marvelous selections of Mexican crafts,  jewelry, and decorative accessories.  

From Machado Square stroll down Sixto Osuna to the Museo Arqueologico to discover more about the prehistoric past of the region.  Sinaloa was never the hotbed of ancient cultures you find in other places in Mexico, but a stop at the small museum is definitely worthwhile. Exhibits are in both Spanish and English, and they chronicle both pre and post-Hispanic times. Of particular interest is the statue of Jorobado de la Nautica, the nautical hunchback, which was discovered in the port excavations.  Displays include pots, projectile points, religious objects, and agricultural implements. Sala Four has a reproduction of an ancient pot burial. 

Mazatlan's Art Museum is a large building with galleries opening onto a pleasant courtyard. Exhibits come and go, but there are permanent displays of prominent Sinaloa artists.  A bookstore carries a huge selection, but unfortunately everything is in Spanish.  Unfortunate also are the museum hours, only 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM.

Wandering back to my room at La Siesta, I came across a small English lending library with a few 50 cent used paperbacks on a sidewalk rack.  Having exhausted all the reading material brought from the States, I stop and select a couple mysteries.  A Canadian woman is also seeking reading material, and we stop for a chat about the pleasures of the Historic District.