New Mexico Historic Hotels: Two Different Fates

The demolition of grand old hotels is a ongoing tragedy.  A new exhibit at the Albuquerque Museum illustrates the glory which once was the Duke City's Alvarado, and a recent stay at Silver City's  Palace Hotel illustrates the obstacles some of these antiquated properties face accommodating the modern traveler.

The magnificent Alvarado was the inspiration of the Fred Harvey Indian Department working in conjunction with the AT&SF railroad..  Built in 1902, the complex extended two city blocks. Constructed in the Mission style of wood frame with a red clay tile roofing, the complex included a railroad depot and offices, hotel, restaurant, and a museum and gift shop united by a 200-foot arcade and 4-foot exterior walls.  The walls were surfaced with steel lathe and rough gray Portland cement stucco.  The upper levels had projecting parapets and towers influenced by California missions and included features like pierced facades used for hanging bells and four-sided bell towers with open arches. 

 

Perhaps the Alvarado's best loved featured was the Indian and Mexican Building Museum, which was positioned along the arcade south of the lunchroom and within reach of passengers traveling on the railroad.  The Indian Room held native work from the regions linked by the railroad, and the Spanish Room featured a collection of Spanish, Mexican, and New Mexican art.  The salesroom had shelves of southwestern pottery and the Navajo jewelry the Harvey Company specially commissioned for its appeal to travelers.  As a child I had two Harvey bracelets, and one daughter collects them.

Unfortunately, time and the economy was not kind to the Alvarado, and in spite of heroic efforts by Albuquerque. Historical Society, it fell victim to the wrecking ball in February 1970. An auction was held, and everything was sold off to eager buyers.  Fortunately, those buyers valued the material, which often was donated to the museum.  These artifacts are the basis of the current exhibit, which runs through June 7, 2009.  It is comprehensive.  You'll find everything from the trademark Syracuse Denmark china and Gorham Churchill silver to door hardware from the Cocina Cantina, the one-time lounge.  

On a recent fact-gathering trip through southern New Mexico, I had the opportunity to stay at one of the state's still-operating historic hotels , The Palace in Silver City.  The imposing building with its cast iron front was built for the Meredith and Ailman bank in 1882. Converted to a hotel in 1900, the new owner Max Shutz "spared no pains or expense to make the new hotel an up-to-date house in every respect...(with) every modern hotel convenience such as closets, bath rooms (sic), electric lights."

The Place has experienced many ups and downs since then.  Purchased by Cal and Nancy Thompson in 1990, the hotel has been restored and refurbished with the help of the Main Street Project and the New Mexico Historical Preservation Office.  For aficionados of old properties with a Victorian flair, The Palace has some predictable eccentricities.  There are no elevators, and the climb to the second level is long.  At the head of the stairs, a sitting room doubles as the breakfast nook.  Rooms split off the long, narrow halls and vary greatly in decor.  

Since I booked late, no single rooms were available, so I reserved a suite.  My "suite" consisted of two rooms divided by a bath consisting of tub/shower and toilet.  The quarters were so crowded that my knees touched the tub while perched on the throne.  The larger of the two rooms was dark with a blocked window and contained a king bed, a dressing table, end table and sink. The smaller room which overlooked the street had a rump-sprung coach, a television, microwave, sink, and a small refrigerator.   This was definitely not the Ritz.

After a continental breakfast in the morning , I stuck my head in several rooms which were waiting for the maid and discovered several brighter, more pleasant accommodations.  Next time I'm in Silver, I'll call ahead and try for one of the quarters with a queen bed.  Room 70 was especially inviting.  

Two hotels, one still hanging on with the patronage of travelers willing to  put up with some inconvenience, one destroyed for a parking lot.  I'll take the inconvenience any day.

The Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, 19th & Mountain Road, NW, Albuquerque 87104,  (505) 243-7255.  Closed Monday.  Fee.  www.cabq.gov.museum 

For information on existing Harvey Houses, go to Fred Harvey Harvey Houses www.harveyhouses.net/index.html 

The Palace Hotel, 106 Broadway, Silver City 88061.  (575) 388-1811.  www.zinanet.com/palacehotel 

Mazatlan, Part Three: Machado Sq. & Museums

Mazatlan is a winter haven for snowbirds from the northern U .S. and Canada.  Most arrive just wanting to escape the cold and snow, and most spend most of their vacation time sauteing on the beach.  Every so often boredom steps in and when it does, they leave the beaches of the Gold Zone and  find their way to Machado Square in the heart of Old Town.  

The Square is the locus for upscale shops, fine dining, and theater.  The shady oasis with its bandshell was named for the Filipino banker who opened the port to the world.  In the 19th century the surrounding buildings housed the major businesses of the day plus some family residences.

The jewel of the area is the Angela Peralta Theater.  Originally called the Teatro Rubio, it opened on February 15, 1874 with a three-act drama "The Bell of the Alnudaina" a play by Juan Palou y Coll.  A decade later it was to have presented the debut of Angela Peralta, known worldwide as the Mexican Nightingale, but the night before the performance the diva perished of yellow fever next door in the Hotel Iturbide. 

This may have been a jinx since through the years the theater's fortunes steadily declined from opera to burlesque. In 1975 Hurricane Olivia finished what years of neglect had done to the building, and it was in ruins.  In 1986 the long process of restoration began with the efforts Antonio Haas and a group of friends.   The current structure is a tribute to their dedication. Built in neoclassical style, the deep sienna exterior with fluted white columns and open balconies is complemented by the interior with its horseshoe design and three levels of balcony seating with balustrades and columns of wrought iron.

Adjoining the theatre the Municipal School of Arts holds classes in music, dance, graphic arts, and pottery.  The building was constructed in two stages: the first in 1840 as a small hotel and the second in 1873 as the Hotel Iturbide.  

One corner of the square houses the Machado Museo Casa in the old Canobbio family home, built in 1846.  Climb the stairs to the second floor and view a time capsule of the home of "a refined European socialite," Italian immigrants who lived on the upper level and used the ground floor as a drugstore.   Included in the room displays is a section on Carnaval costumes. In place of the drugstore, a restaurant now occupies the ground floor. 

Shoppers find a wide selection of galleries and shops on streets radiating from the square.  Casa Antigua on Mariano Escobedo specializes in silver and handcrafts.  NIDART on the corner of Libertad and Carnaval houses the workshops of leather artists famous for their colorful Carnaval masks.  Gandarva on Constitucion and Casa Etnika on Osuna both have marvelous selections of Mexican crafts,  jewelry, and decorative accessories.  

From Machado Square stroll down Sixto Osuna to the Museo Arqueologico to discover more about the prehistoric past of the region.  Sinaloa was never the hotbed of ancient cultures you find in other places in Mexico, but a stop at the small museum is definitely worthwhile. Exhibits are in both Spanish and English, and they chronicle both pre and post-Hispanic times. Of particular interest is the statue of Jorobado de la Nautica, the nautical hunchback, which was discovered in the port excavations.  Displays include pots, projectile points, religious objects, and agricultural implements. Sala Four has a reproduction of an ancient pot burial. 

Mazatlan's Art Museum is a large building with galleries opening onto a pleasant courtyard. Exhibits come and go, but there are permanent displays of prominent Sinaloa artists.  A bookstore carries a huge selection, but unfortunately everything is in Spanish.  Unfortunate also are the museum hours, only 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM.

Wandering back to my room at La Siesta, I came across a small English lending library with a few 50 cent used paperbacks on a sidewalk rack.  Having exhausted all the reading material brought from the States, I stop and select a couple mysteries.  A Canadian woman is also seeking reading material, and we stop for a chat about the pleasures of the Historic District.